Pet’s Plates
Kuya Asian Pub2,
Triq Ross,
St Julian’s
Tel 2713 6517
Food: 7/10
Location: 5/10
Service: 6/10
Value: 7/10
Overall: 7/10
I couldn’t find this place at first. I walked up and down the road before, finally, spotting this pub’s very unassuming, inconspicuous entrance. It runs the risk of going unseen from the road, placed as it is on a chaotic, busy street, swallowed up by the garish surroundings of Paceville.
A flight of steps leads you down from the front door to the small, basement level restaurant below. The bar anchors the room and serves a good selection of craft beer, some local and some of more exotic, far-flung provenance. The decor is distinctly industrial and grunge, with simple tables and chairs and basic, mismatched crockery. I immediately felt at ease in this laid-back environment and enjoyed the vibrant, hip atmosphere.
The pub serves Asian street food. Prior to moving into the restaurant realm, the Kuya venture took the form of a food truck, which is still in operation in Ta’ Xbiex. Street food vending has only recently taken the Western world by storm, despite being around for millennia and crossing continents.
The Ancient Greeks and Romans left us the legacy of street food; grabbing the likes of fried fish, a sausage or some chickpea soup on the go. Street food was an integral part of everyday life.
Excavations at Pompeii revealed evidence of numerous street food vendors. But even back then, the custom of street food was held in low regard. It was something consumed only by the poor. Gradually, the tides have turned and this food custom is now no longer looked upon with disdain.
The meteoric rise of street food in the Western world is a sign of the times. Street food now caters to absolutely everyone. It is fashionable. It is foodie. It can even be gourmet. Most importantly, it is good. And good street food can give even the best restaurants a run for their money.
The sign outside the Kuya Pub promises Thai and Japanese street food, but the menu, up on a chalkboard to the right of the bar, speaks of Asian fusion. This could be seen, for instance, in the Vietnamese bean noodles or in the Chinese Dim sum we shared as a starter.
The term Dim sum encompasses a bountiful array of lovely, little foods that come in a myriad of forms. From buns, dumplings and noodle rolls to puddings and tarts, dim sum dishes can be sweet or savoury and are typically fried, steamed or baked.
Dim sum was not originally a food to be found sold in the street. Dim sum were born into a position of privilege; a creation of Chinese court chefs striving to impress the Emperor and win his favour. They were triumphant in their seduction.
The meteoric rise of street food in the Western world is a sign of the times. Street food now caters to absolutely everyone. It is fashionable
These dishes gradually moved out of the Royal court and into the streets where they were even sold in teahouses along the ancient Silk Road. Today, the association with tea is still strong. Many Chinese restaurants will typically serve a selection of dim sum dishes with tea over brunch or lunch. Ethereally light with wonderfully delicate flavour, steamed prawn dumplings are perhaps the most iconic of classic dim sum dishes.
Arriving in a piping hot, steamer basket, Kuya’s prawn parcels were delicious, bite-sized clouds of heavenliness. Juicy, diced prawns had been tightly encased in a thin, almost translucent wrapper made from wheat starch and tapioca starch, delicately pleated on one side and sprinkled with black sesame seeds.
Along with the prawn dim sum, we had ordered the calamari. A bowl of hot, deep-fried squid arrived in a golden, crisp cluster of rings and tendrils. The squid pieces were tasty, having been nicely seasoned with a wasabi and pepper vinaigrette. While we were still busy shovelling squid into our mouths, the main course dishes arrived.
The honey-soy glazed crispy beef was almost too crisp. The beef strips were slightly tough and over-fried. The browned beef strips were served alongside noodles and mixed vegetables. The dish was fragrant with lemon grass and lime, with the honey imparting a delectable sweetness. The ingredients were extremely fresh. Had it not been for the overcooked beef, the dish would have been absolutely scrumptious.
Our second main course dish was the Bang Bang Chicken - a traditional street vendors’ dish of Chinese origin. The dish’s unusual name reflects the customary preparation of the chicken prior to cooking. It refers to the noise made by the mallets as they repeatedly beat tough chicken breasts into tender submission.
The tenderised, softened chicken meat had an improved texture and was thus better able to absorb the sauce it was doused in. As far as this point goes, Kuya’s Bang Bang Chicken was a success. It was tender and moist. The thick, creamy dressing slathered over it was another matter. Consisting primarily of peanut butter and sweet chilli, the sauce was not good in the slightest.
The kitchen had been far too heavy handed with their use of peanut butter. As a result, the complexity of flavours resulting from the ginger, the garlic, the soy sauce and the chilli pepper was totally lost, entirely obliterated by the peanut butter.
Kuya’s limited menu had read like a breath of fresh air. The simple, tasty and very reasonably priced food on offer is just the sort of fast food that I love – only, the service at Kuya was pretty slow, especially when you consider that street food is being served. I liked the focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients and greatly enjoyed the starters. Our main course dishes were brimming with unlocked potential but sadly lacked good execution.
The atmosphere at Kuya was extremely friendly and lively. The place is so small that the person sitting behind me at the bar was almost toppling onto our table. Without exerting himself too much, he could have easily reached over and stolen a prawn dumpling. I didn’t mind in the slightest.
That being said, towards the end of our dinner the place grew very crowded. Things got a bit too cosy. A group of people unceremoniously planted themselves at the bar and practically sat on me. It was time to move.
The next time I desire some Kuya food, I’ll dine al fresco at the food truck in Ta’ Xbiex. No one should sit on me there.
You can send e-mails about this column to petsplates@gmail.com.