All the big Italian names are in Milan to display their luxurious collections for the city's fashion week. The 80’s are a defining theme in next winter’s collections along with the punk and goth elements so prevalent in that decade.

The late Angelo Marani's daughter Julia used this collection to pay tribute to her father's work.

Grinko

The first show of the season was Grinko. The inspiration for their collection was life, stemming from the birth of their twin daughters. The collection was quite remarkable and innovate, fusing together sports and activewear elements with those often found in more couture traditions, the result is a striking one. Features are strong cuts and irregular heights, contrasting details, oversize proportions and a mix of both feminine and masculine elements. I especially liked the mix of cinching in waists alongside oversized shapes and deconstructed pieces.

A very strong and very interesting collection.

Angelo Marani

Whilst the designer himself is no longer alive, his daughter has taken over the company. This will be the last collection which he has actually worked on in some way however this is the first catwalk show without the designer himself. This collection has now become the harmony of the two minds, father and daughter. Julia describes the collection as a tribute to her father’s work.

The theme is patchwork, even the logo is a patchwork of lettering n embroidered velvet. Pleated skirts in rich fabrics such as velvet and silk georgette twirl around, allowing us to view special, innovative manufacturing techniques and thermo-welded transparencies. These have been paired with oversized jumpers in some cases. There are some truly gorgeous pieces. Julia brings some new features such as oversized silhouettes and pieces inspired by her father’s own wardrobe such as a masculine-tailored knitcoat and masculine-cut suits.

Cristiano Burani

Rarely have I been so excited in a show as I was whilst watching this one. The clothes gave off energy and a vibe so interesting it made me want to rip everything off and wear in that instant. From the lace-up platform boots - so punk! To the sex slogans, to the hairstyles pulled together using grips, the whole effect was perfectly captivating.

Cristiano Burani's collection gave off an exciting vibe.

Sports references are perfectly combined with luxurious elements whilst coats and knitwear take center stage. Other elements include men's pinstripes, cashmere velour, valencienne lace, denim, taffetas, macro corduroys and printed silk, jacquard fil coupé, all mated, coated, pleated, hand-rolled with "crackle" effect fo outfits with underground allure and architectural shapes. Leather is also present, occasionally in a wonderful shade of blush pink.

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