Nightlife in Istanbul

From a political perspective, these are certainly not the happiest of times for the people of Turkey. Tourism has taken somewhat of a hit in the past months – rather unfairly, if truth be told, given that in these dark times trouble can hit anywhere and anytime. The people of Turkey in general, and Istanbul more specifically, are still the colourful, warm and eccentric personalities of always. The architecture remains magical, the food sumptuous, the street life seductive.

And, finally, things seem to be settling down after the tragic events that took place earlier this year. Slowly, Turkey is starting to heal, it’s heart beating regularly again and nowhere is this more evident than in the hustle and bustle of Sultanahmet, the site of such sad happenings last January. In celebration of this, here are my top five reasons why I keep returning to the capital of the orient.

The coffee

Are you a true coffee addict? Have you tried Turkish coffee yet? No? Well, I’m sorry then you can’t really stake claim to that honorific. Turkish coffee beats even the Italian variety (sorry, neighbours!). Think of the traditional espresso; make it darker, fresher and more intense. And there you have it.

While there, make sure that you try the genuine thing and do not be fobbed off by the touristy, weaker versions. The centre of Istanbul is full of places that cater for the Turks themselves. Keep an eye out for the small tea and coffee shops that have groups of locals hanging outside, rather than the ones touting tourist menus.

In all fairness, even the tourist places are likely to serve the real thing, unless you actually ask for an Americano, but the local spots are more fun and have a more genuine air about them. Plus, you get to meet interesting characters.

When you order you will likely be asked whether you would like any sugar with it. Unless you are an old hand at this, always say yes. Back home, I’m used to having my strong Italian espresso without any sugar, but it still took me a while to get used to the extra strong kick of sugarless Turkish coffee. The sugar will be blended directly into the mix while the coffee is being prepared, so don’t be surprised when no sugar satchets are forthcoming.

Oh, and don’t forget to stop drinking before you reach the bottom. You’ll notice when to stop, as the liquid will change to a grainy, sludgy consistency. It will be very unamusing for you if you try to down that – but very amusing for the locals, that’s for sure.

The cosmopolitan feel

Istanbul’s people are pretty amazing. The city is a cosmopolitan hub, straddling Europe and Asia – literally so, as the Bosphorus separates the western from the eastern side. Both sides are like two halves of an opposite coin.

The main tourist area on the western side, covering the major sights and landmarks such as Sultanahmet and the web of bars and clubs that is Taksim Square, is a hub of nationalities. And they’re not all tourists, either. Istanbul attracts many long term travellers or re-settlers from all over the world, people who just want to experience the magic that is Constantinople for a while.

Things seem to be settling down after the tragic events that took place earlier this year

Because life in Istanbul is truly magical: from the muezzin chanting Allah hu Akbar at 5.30 in the morning to the spectacular sunsets over Bosphorus Bridge, the smell of freshly grilled corn on the cob coming from the street vendors, the hustle and bustle of the promenade with its amazing skyline, the lazy nights drinking cheap Turkish wine in some small square off Sultanahmet, the more sophisticated evenings doing cocktails from some swanky lounge facing the Bosphorus... The Western side is a land of contrasts that stimulates all the senses. It does threaten to overwhelm you, at first, but you’re soon only too happy to be swallowed up by its constant life pulse.

The view on the Bosphorus

Its Asian identity

Because yes, despite the cosmopolitan nature of the western side, there is still an equally alluring eastern side just waiting to be discovered. Catch a bus and stop on the other side of the Bosphorus, maybe in the Beylerbeyi area or by taking the ferry to Kadikoy. Here, in this largely residential side, you can discover a quieter, slower way of life as people go about their daily business.

The mosques here are smaller, less showy, and give an insight into the typical way of life of a Turkish family. The restaurants, too, are less fancy but their food is just as delicious. Walks by the promenade are more relaxing. The views are unobstructed by hordes of tourists or street vendors touting their wares. Cats and dogs – the majority of which appear well-fed, thankfully – lounge around luxuriously, waiting for the fishermen to throw them scraps. And the view over the western side of Istanbul is beautiful enough to make you weep.

The markets

Well, some of them anyway. Everyone seems to flock to the Gran Bazaar. Sure, it can be fun, for all of, umm, 10 minutes. If you’re the sort of person who enjoys the Maltese monti, fine, you will probably want to stick around for longer.

The Gran Bazaar is chockful of ‘genuine fakes’, a term I found hilarious, if apt. Most people love it and fill their suitcases with genuine fakes. There are also the typical Turkish souvenirs. Oh yeah, and prepare to be harassed – not in the bad way, but in the “please buy something and let’s have some fun haggling” way. And who can blame the vendors, really?

However, if a better experience that will see you leaving the premises with better purchases is what you are after, then skip the Gran Bazaar and go directly to the Spice Bazaar. Foodstuffs are always better than genuine fakes, anyway.

And there’s nothing fake about what the wares here will do to your tastebuds. I usually leave the Spice Bazaar laden with a variety of things. First off, I stop at the first shop on the right, by the main entrance. Here, I get my boxes of Turkish delight and baklava. The Turkish delight here is the best. Make sure you include some of the raspberry and pistachio variety and do ask for your purchases to be vacuum-wrapped, especially the baklava, so it won’t go dry till you get back home.

My next stop is right opposite, for spices and teas. I usually get some good ras el ħanut, Iranian saffron (costs a bomb, but goes amazingly well with risotto) and their fresh lemon and green tea, which will certainly brighten up your winter. There’s lots more to see at the spice market, and not everything is related to food, either. The scarves are the genuine sort and decently priced and there are some genuines, too, as opposed to genuine fakes.

The food

I really can’t overstate this part. The food is out of this world, as long as you know where to go. You can get it with the local cafes and the street vendors. You can fancy it up at some of the most sophisticated restaurants. And, you can get wasted while waiting for the sunrise to hit the skyline – on super expensive cocktails from the top of a skyscraper lounge or on Turkish wine slumming it with some colourful characters.

Start out the day with a breakfast from a couple of the street vendors selling corn on the cob, baklava and those sticky pastries that are so moreish. Stop for a mid-morning coffee at a small, dingy cafe by the promenade and thank me later. A kebab lunch in the area where there is the Islamic Art museum and, for dinner, if in the mood to splurge, one of the hotel restaurants or a lounge/dining area on the banks of the Bosphorus.

■ Getting there: I flew Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com). Comfortable, timely and helps you kick off the Turkish experience right on board, with unbelievably tasty inflight food.

■ Where to stay: I stayed at the Radisson SAS Blu (www.radissonblu.com/Istanbul); located in the Bakirkoy district, its biggest selling point is its proximity to the airport, so if you’re staying there for a short time and you’re flying at odd hours it’s worth considering. The hotel also does a mean Turkish breakfast. But be warned, it is somewhat cut off from the street life of central Istanbul.