Veronica Stivala found the Finnish town Tampere gorgeous this summer. The sun didn’t set. She enjoyed endless walks around their endless lakes and thick forests, while, of course, eating liquorice

The medieval cathedral in Tampere.The medieval cathedral in Tampere.

Tampere is a quaint little town in the middle of Finland which is gorgeous in the summer months when the sun doesn’t set, and when you can enjoy endless walks around their endless lakes and thick forests.

Although it did not feel like it, Tampere is actually the most populous inland town of the Nordic countries. The city is suitably located between two beautiful lakes – Näsijärvi and Pyhäjärvi, which, because of their contrasting levels of some 18 metres, cause the rapids linking them to serve as an important power source. The city is actually nicknamed the Manchester of Finland due to its industrial past.

However, industry was the last thing on my mind during my short stay in Tampere and I was pleasantly surprised by the vicinity, refreshing nature, comprising lush woods, cool lakes and forest paths, that were just around the corner from the city centre.

Nothing quite beats the demure rustle of the tree leaves, the crisp woodland air and the smell of earth, slightly wet after recent rain, but welcomingly fresh

One of my favourite outings was a walk through the woodland area surrounding the Pyynikki Observation Tower in the west of the city. The walk along the lake bank was so pleasant and relaxing. As I walked along cobblestone paths, that eventually turned into less manmade trails, I found myself quietly marveling at the vast expanse of still water, populated by a few small, colourful wooden boats. Nothing quite beats the demure rustle of the tree leaves, the crisp woodland air, and the smell of earth, slightly wet after recent rain, but welcomingly fresh.

The view from the bridge.The view from the bridge.

The walk from the city through the woods to the highlight – the observation tower – requires a good hour, and the last part is slightly uphill. But this actually serves as an apt prelude to the feast of splendid views, and equally splendid culinary delights…

The Pyynikki observation tower is located on top of the world’s largest gravel esker (that’s a naturally occurring long, winding ridge) over 150 metres above sea level. The tower offers a wonderful view that spans over two lakes and the entire city of Tampere. This is not the first and original tower to be built on the esker as its predecessor, a wooden tower built in 1888, was damaged during the 1918 war.

The current tower, which was completed in 1929, is made out of red granite and was designed by the assistant town architect at the time, Vilho Kolho. The 80-year-old tower is 26 metres tall and can be accessed by a lift, and, if you’re up for it, stairs. A treat for weary travellers, the tower’s café is renowned for its delectable doughnuts, which, made from a secret recipe,  are baked on the spot and served fresh.

View of Tampere from Pyynikki tower.View of Tampere from Pyynikki tower.

The hours of sunlight in summer extend to practically the whole days, bar a very few hours of quasi-darkness

Speaking of food, a word needs to be said about one of the local delicacies – salty liquorice, known as salmiak. Salmiak is a soft liquorice with ammonium chloride added to give it its distinctive saltiness. This sweet, found in various varieties including a caramel version is, admittedly an acquired taste. It is popular here and has even made its way to a salmiak-flavoured vodka. Did I love the liquorice? Love is perhaps too strong a word and, while I did occasionally take one, two or three pieces, I admit I would not go out of my way to buy some more.

The Tammerkoski bridge statue.The Tammerkoski bridge statue.

Because Finland is so far north, the hours of sunlight in summer extend to practically the whole days, bar a very few hours of quasi-darkness. While I definitely prefer longer days to shorter ones, I admit these long, bright days had my body in a bit of a dizzy and I found myself struggling to sleep.

It was also quite an experience to have been out at around two in the morning when it was on the cusp of being dark, and to find that, rather than getting darker, the day only proceeded to dawn. Those few hours of attempted dark were all the day would allow as we approached mid-June, the 21st of which is the longest day in the year.

I’m glad I went in summer and wish I had more time to explore this relatively unassuming city, but one whose quality of life is so good that it is reputed to be one of the best places to live and raise one’s children.

 

The panorama outside of town.The panorama outside of town.

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