Pet’s plates

Bacchus
1 Inguanez Alley,
Mdina
Tel: 2145 4981

Food: 9/10
Location: 8/10
Service: 10/10
Value: 8/10
Overall: 9/10

Rob and I were on a date, a date that was twisted and contorted in such a way that it was no longer a date. En route we bumped into other people – other people and their baby. Gone was the intimacy. And the silence of the Silent City. The couple were friends of ours. We felt compelled to join table and join tables we did.

Mdina is not without its charms. This walled city whispers of Roman, Arab and Norman conquests and basks in its Medieval glory, while reigning over the rest of Malta. It is quite possibly the most beguiling jewel in our island’s crown, with the exception perhaps of Valletta.

Such a gem ought to boast a great restaurant and, that night, we were at Bacchus, a restaurant that has been around for so long (almost 40 years, to be precise) that it is synonymous with Mdina and with many a romantic date. But I hadn’t eaten there in ages.

As its name suggests, Bacchus is an invitation to indulge. And indulge you will, waved on by the Roman god of wine and decadence, or at least, by a larger than life statue of him that greets you as you climb the restaurant steps.

Bacchus comprises three dining areas. The first is by far the most stunning and the most atmospheric. You enter two double vaulted chambers built into the ancient city walls, previously used as gunpowder magazines dating back to the time of Grandmaster de Redin. We passed through these vaulted chambers and the upstairs ballroom in order to reach the outdoors area in which we dined.

The decor of the ballroom might not be to everyone’s taste but the covered garden area on the bastions where we sat was a tranquil oasis with a serene atmosphere that invited one to succumb to languor.

Apart from the excellent fare, I was made to see just how exceptional the staff were

The sophisticated menu, featuring predominantly French and Italian cuisine, promised much with dishes ranging from Chateaubriand steak with a bearnaise sauce and Linguine from Gragnano with two cheeses sauce.

Rob’s Saltimbocca was delicious, if a little salty, but I loved it. Rob made sure the dish stayed true to its name and didn’t stop shovelling down mouthfuls.

The flattened veal escalopes were envy-inducing, topped with slivers of cured ham and cooked in a syrupy Marsala wine sauce. Saltimbocca is a simple but superb dish that remains a classic of Roman cuisine.

The entire dinner became a sequence of passing the crying baby from one set of hands to another, rocking and walking him in an effort to keep him as invisible as possible. But I had ordered the Barbary duck breast and I fiercely drew the line at eating it cold. Tough and chewy, over-cooked duck is not a pleasant thing. This was a blushing pink, so tender it almost melted on the tongue.

The glazed duck breast was masterfully prepared, well-seasoned and full of flavour with its rich, meaty juices combining harmoniously with the slightly sweet beetroot, local honey, feta cheese and hazelnut fricassee. This all created sublime flavour and texture in the mouth. Apart from passing the baby, there was a lot of passing of plates between Rob and myself that night.

The gilt-head sea bream had been cooked to perfection. This glorious Mediterranean fish, superior in taste to any other bream, was extremely flavoursome and succulent, having been beautifully grilled, filleted and served with a vibrant, aromatic sauce verde.

I didn’t get to taste the papardelle with local prawns, chorizo and walnut gremolata, one of Bacchus’s signature dishes, but it looked gorgeous.

For dessert I had a strong desire to try the pistachio and olive oil cake served with chocolate ice cream. Olive oil makes the most luscious of cakes. This one boasted a wonderfully vibrant green colour due to the pistachio nuts. It was moist and semi-sweet with a light crumb. Spoonfuls of the chocolate ice cream sweetened the palate every now and again.

Rob’s chocolate tart had been enhanced with the use of chilli for true depth of flavour. Dark chocolate and chilli are a flavour match made in heaven and this tart was thus a fantastic combination of warmth and spice. The tart base was buttery, flaky and light and the accompanying biscotto ice cream set it off nicely. The entire dessert was achingly good.

The moment the last forkful of dessert had been savoured, right on cue, the baby let out a huge sigh and finally slept. This was no catnap but a deep, deep slumber. I learnt that night that most babies are born with this inbuilt sense of (tragi)comic timing.

But dining out with baby had had its advantages. It helped me to see a side of the waiting staff that I would otherwise never have witnessed. Apart from the excellent fare, I was made to see just how exceptional the staff were. And they were truly wonderful.

Throughout the night we were waited on by three tremendously charming waiters who, unperturbed, welcomed baby’s little, loud presence and seemed genuinely thrilled to have him there. I was very impressed that they showed such patience with us. This was of great relief to baby’s haggard looking parents, who feel they can no longer dine anywhere decent since the arrival of said baby. One waiter even carried baby’s pram out through the restaurant and down a flight of stairs when it was time to leave.

The location of Bacchus is superb. Indeed, this extensive restaurant and its sprawling grounds take up an entire bastion ravelin. With refined, polished cookery, Bacchus certainly befits these stunning surroundings. It is not the only restaurant in Mdina, but it is certainly one of the best. There is absolute care and commitment in their work and in their service.

You can send e-mails about this column to petsplates@gmail.com.

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