The open kitchen at Paranga. Photos: Mark Zammit Cordina

Summer has well and truly kicked off and this can only mean one thing – long lunches and balmy evenings at the Paranga Restaurant are back. The restaurant, which forms part of InterContinental Malta and is located on the water, literally so, of St George’s Bay, has reopened its doors for the season armed with a new menu and décor.

Upon walking in, it is difficult not to notice the new open kitchen that shines and beckons you in. Behind the stainless steel divide, it’s a hub of activity as chefs get ready for the lunchtime rush. The lounge area has been extended and it’s becoming very popular as a purely drinks hangout in the evenings, I am told.

We are led in past a rather impressive display of fresh fish on to our table. Since I’ve been last, the interiors have undergone some changes, with the dining area being expanded to offer a more mellow vibe.

The way the restaurant is planned, you’re guaranteed a sea and a beach view from wherever you’re sitting – one of the restaurant’s attractions, I have to admit. The dining area is actually built on a reclaimed section of the water itself. Peer down through the wooden slats, and you’ll see the waves lapping away right beneath you, and maybe even a fish or two swimming in the shallows. The best part is that, come night-time, tables are also set on the beach itself, which means you can literally eat with your feet in the sand. An unbeatable part of the Maltese summer, and something that I wish more restaurants would offer.

White Chocolate Souffle. Photo: Ramona Depares

But on to the main event – food and drink. The wine list has been updated to include some new offerings, although we opted for a classic favourite – Meridiana’s Isis. The new menu puts to good use Malta’s seasonal produce, from fish and seafood to crispy, flavourful veg and fruits. There is an emphasis on fresh ingredients, with classic summer favourites given a particular Paranga twist.

My dining partner and myself decided to kick off with a black meagre and salmon carpaccio, served with baby cucumber, radish and red vinegar gel (me) and pan-seared fresh scallops wrapped in cured pork cheek, caramelised beetroot purée, basil emulsion and black olive powder (her).

We shared to our heart’s content and couldn’t pick a favourite. Including black meagre in the carpaccio was a stroke of genius, contrasting deliciously with the stronger salmon. The scallops were equally interesting, with the pork cheek and the caramel giving an unusual and very satisfying flavour.

There is an emphasis on fresh ingredients, with classic summer favourites given a particular Paranga twist

Because it is difficult to resist freshly-baked bread, we did try out Paranga’s bakery offering while awaiting our main course and in between sips of Isis and mouthfuls of warm, buttered bread, we were kept very nicely occupied until our main courses arrived.

Pistachio Crème Brûlée

I had opted for a roasted sea bass, served with butternut squash and orange purée, crispy onions, dried cherry tomatoes and cresses. The twist? The fish is smoked before it’s prepared and the edge the smokiness gives it is heavenly.

My companion opted for grilled seabream prepared the traditional way – simple perfection. Both dishes were served with a mixed leaf salad and roast rosemary potatoes.

The rest of the menu is just as diverse, with an emphasis on Mediterranean ingredients and dishes, with that added edge that the Paranga chefs brigade infuse them with. The pasta selection is particularly intriguing and I will make sure to give it a go next time.

Somehow, both of us made space for dessert. It was impossible to refuse, especially after spying the words White Chocolate Soufflé and Pistachio Crème brûlée. The soufflé, which is prepared there and then, is a luscious concoction of cake and melted lava chocolate that simply fills you with joy. It’s like happiness in a pot. The crème brûlée is served with pistachio and orange biscuit and caramelised pistachios and is pretty perfect.

A couple of espressos gave us the energy to actually continue with an afternoon’s work, but not before planning another visit to Paranga – this time by night.

Paranga, St George’s Bay, St Julian’s. Tel: 2137 7600.

www.intercontinental.com/icmalta