The three major cities of Malta, namely Valletta, Mdina and Vittoriosa, and the Cittadella in Gozo, are zones of exceptional historical, artistic and architectural interest. Historians, artists and academics have attempted to capture their unique features but their impressive fortifications have not received the focus they deserve, with the notable exceptions of Dennis De Lucca, Stephen Spiteri and a few others.

Presently, as the impressive restoration by Heritage Malta has been almost concluded, it is high time that these fortifications designed by famous European military engineers be highlighted and appreciated. It is an unusual experience to embark on a circular walking tour around Valletta and observe the exceptional heights of the bastions that make them the most formidable in Europe.

The earlier fortifications around Vittoriosa, particularly the land front stretching from Porto delle Galere (Dockyard Creek) to Porto della Infermeria (Kalkara Creek) have been restored to their former splendour leading to the finest jewel in the lines of fortification, the impregnable Fort St Angelo, the epitome of our checkered history.

The surrounding bastions and cavaliers are further enhanced by the unique three-gate bent entrance starting from the Gate of Aragon designed by French engineer De Mondion in 1722, then over the bridge to Couvre Porte, until finally you reach the Gate of Provence, the main gate festooned with the Biblical inscription Obumbrasti Super Caput Meum in Die Belli (You have protected me in times of war). This confirms the European ethos of Vittoriosa, deserving to be considered as a European city of culture.

View from VittoriosaView from Vittoriosa

The recent aesthetic restoration of the Cittadella is a manifestation of the excellent work done by our architects and skilled workers. A circular walking tour of the Cittadella battlements is the experience of a lifetime, redolent with history, legend and mystery.

Unfortunately no circular walking tour can be organised on the battlements of Mdina. Sadly there is only one vantage point, Bastion Square overlooking Mtarfa. The bastions over Greek Gate and those over the imposing Main Gate, are inaccessible and beggar the question: who owns the bastions?

What a marvelous experience it would be for one to enjoy the thrill of a walking tour on the bastions and cavaliers of the Silent City.

It is an unusual experience to embark on a circular walking tour around Valletta and observe the exceptional heights of the bastions

While a round tour of the Vittoriosa bastions is now possible, Heritage Malta should decide the fortunes of the impressive and expansive Post of Castille, the most prominent locality in the Great Siege of 1565 that is represented three times in Matteo Perez d’Aleccio’s magnificent frescoes in the Grand Master’s Palace in Valetta. At least its street-level area should be made accessible to expose the various unique features of the fort.

With the construction of the Cottonera Lines, initiated in 1670 after a new threat of a Turkish invasion following the fall of Crete, Vittoriosa was further strengthened as these long lines of fortifications encircle the Three Cities starting from San Salvatore Gate.

This beautiful ornate massive gate is now totally in ruins and fully exposed to the elements and vandalism. Another architectural gem, St Louis Gate, also inaccessible, is only enjoyed by cows and goats which some wisecrack dubbed ‘Cow & Gate’. The huge San Salvatore Fort, which once housed the Maltese internees early last war, is in private hands and inaccessible.

On the outskirts of Vittoriosa there was once a very popular walk known as id-Dawra ta’ l-Isptar ( the hospital walk ) because of the building of a military hospital during the Crimean War and which, since 1929, has served as St Edward’s College. This walk has lost much of its charm because it is disfigured with enormous boundary walls.

These walls contrast sharply with the more dignified approach to St Edward’s College with its lush turf and trees. But the most glaring blow to the Cottonera people is the complete closure, about 15 years ago, of St Louis Curtain, also known as Ta’ Pazan. Pazan was a harbinger during the knights’ period and was quite familiar with the names of the galleys and their Maltese crews. He had a pair of binoculars and from this site he could identify the approaching galleys.

Pazan would immediately run to the relatives concerned to deliver the good tidings for which he was paid handsomely. This bastion behind the ancient cemetery of St Lawrence offers a breathtaking view of the countryside and the sea.

Undoubtedly a fortifications trail taking in the Cottonera Lines with its bastions, cavaliers, ravelins, sally ports and many other features should present a new niche to the tourism authorities, targetting the thousands of those interested in military architecture.

I am sure that such an initiative would be fully endorsed by the hard working heritage NGO Wirt Artna whose headquarters are within the magnificent Notre Dame Gate, the official decorative gate of the Cottonera Lines designed by the great Romano Carapecchia.

Furthermore, these fortifications are within the public domain and a task force should be set up to reclaim the bastions and other sites illegally obtained. An attempt should also be made by the State to recover public properties within lines of fortifications, rented out to private individuals.

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