Pet’s Plates
Commando Restaurant
Misraħ Iż-Żjara tal-Papa,
Mellieħa.
Tel: 2152 3459
Food: 9/10
Location: 9/10
Service: 8/10
Value for money: 9/10
Overall: 9/10
I am still raving about this place! I haven’t eaten such a superb meal in a while.
This small, quaint restaurant and wine bar is beautiful while maintaining an atmosphere of easy comfort and intimacy. The decor is elegant, the lighting is soft and subdued and the tables are beautifully set. In warmer weather you can sit on the front patio outside. The place looks onto the entrance of the hilltop sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Mellieħa, an ancient shrine dating back to the 16th century.
Commando restaurant has belonged to the head chef’s family for generations, but it is now a far cry from the little bar that belonged to his great-grandfather. As a modest establishment, his great-grandfather served basic meals to, among others, the service men of the Royal Marine Commandos, who were stationed down the hill in Għadira Bay during World War II.
And, it was these very same Royal Marines who christened the restaurant with the name it still bears today. This fine dining restaurant now possesses a refined atmosphere and it was a joy to sit in. Seated in a snug, cushioned booth, I was in no rush to order. I wanted to savour every minute and that included the build up to the dinner.
The menu at Commando is refreshingly clean and concise, centreing predominantly on Mediterranean flavours with a focus on local, seasonal produce. As we were warmly and very graciously greeted and seated, the tone was immediately set with a surprise appetizer. An amuse bouche of tiny bruschetta squares topped with fresh tomato and creamy pesto was offered to us. This mouthful of deliciousness exemplified the quality of the food that was to follow.
The first course arrived without delay. My starter of braised rabbit ravioli, peppered with crunchy, toasted pine nuts and tossed in butter and parmesan shavings, was utterly sublime. Even the marrow soup (the soup of the day) was smooth and luscious – something so simple had been elevated to a thing of beauty. The al dente, homemade pappardelle married with succulent beef fillet strips, peas and mushrooms was absolute pasta perfection, satisfying and moreish.
An impressive dining experience
Silence fell at our table as everyone lost themselves in their food, totally engrossed in the contents of their plates.
I eagerly awaited the main course, which arrived after a suitable pause. The pan-roasted fillet of veal was cooked to medium-rare perfection. It was quite excellent and it was such a pleasure to see a prized cut of beef cooked splendidly. Quality ingredients deserve this level of respect and appreciation. Once you’ve killed an animal you should at least make the most of it.
The sumptuous veal fillet was accompanied by a delicious and creamy, truffle barley risotto that was al dente and luscious. This is ultimately one of the phenomena of good cooking – how the simplest, most humble of ingredients, like a cereal grain in this case, can be transformed into something magnificent.
It was the same thing with the simple vegetarian dish of potato gnocchi. These were doused in a creamy sauce of porcini, stilton, honey and walnuts and elevated to a first-rate dish. I had ordered the confit belly of slow-roasted local pork for myself. The crunchy, crispy crackling on the pork was divine and set off the pork meat layer beneath which was unctuous and melt in the mouth.
Apart from the perfect crackling, the second best accompaniment to pork is always apple. This brilliant, classic pairing came in the form of an apple purée that was velvety smooth. Some stuffed baby cabbage added to the different textures on the plate and finished off this accomplished dish. The seared fillets of sea bream were moist and tender and had just the right touch of seasoning, complemented by salty pancetta. The fish was another example of the chefs’ fine cooking skills. Some main course dishes were more complex than others, but all constituted examples of excellent cooking.
And, how could we leave a place like this without trying their dessert? It was, after all, a night of indulgence. And we intended to indulge until the very end. My sticky toffee pudding, a highlight of British cuisine, was served with homemade vanilla ice cream. Steamed, hearty puddings don’t get much better than this British classic. The date-based, moist sponge drenched in rich toffee sauce was almost sinful and I felt spoilt rotten.
Not content, I still had to steal a bite of everyone else’s dessert. The chocolate fondant with its perfect molten centre was pure decadent deliciousness. The cake to molten filling ratio was just right. It was accompanied by a quenelle of lovely hazelnut ice cream. The milk chocolate and nut brownie was satisfyingly chewy. And as if this wasn’t good enough, the plate was dotted with little dollops of burnt marshmallow and orange gel. It almost looked too good to eat.
Presentation and execution are of course nothing without great taste and flavour, and the latter was hardly lacking. Each dish was of outstanding quality. Commando is precisely what a restaurant should be. We had fared sumptuously and the food was faultless. From presentation to taste, each dish was exceptional. These are most certainly chefs who understand their craft. An undeniable attention to detail was present in every dish, from the amuse bouche through to dessert, each an aesthetic pleasure.
The service was impeccable throughout the meal. When you consider the high standards at Commando, prices are definitely fair. The wine list was varied and also fairly priced. I suppose I fell in love with this place from the start and it went on to exceed my expectations.
Once out of the restaurant, we took a short, digestive stroll to the expertly-restored and beautifully-lit Marian sanctuary nearby. The view down to Mellieħa Bay was breathtaking. It was the perfect ending to an impressive dining experience.