One of my favourite things to cook at this time of year is a potato-topped pie. It might be a shepherd’s pie or a cottage pie. As tomorrow is St Andrew’s Day, haggis topped with mash in honour of Scotland’s patron saint and national dish is another possibility.

Whichever I choose, it will come with my version of Robuchon potatoes made famous by the eponymous French chef. In the original dish, equal quantities of butter and potatoes are used. I was fortunate enough to taste this at Restaurant Jamin years ago, after which chef Joel Robuchon showed me round his kitchen.

Fish pie comes at the top of the list of all-time favourites and this is today’s main course

My version of the recipe is not as rich. I use a little of the water in which the potatoes were cooked, together with some milk and a little olive oil and butter beaten into the mash to make it smooth, creamy and delicious. And to mash the potatoes, I find the smoothest result is obtained by rubbing the potatoes through a plastic sieve and then adding the liquids. A potato ricer does the job perfectly, but I prefer kitchen equipment that does duty for several functions.

Fish pie comes at the top of the list of all-time favourites and this is today’s main course. It is a flexible recipe. Some cooks use shellfish and salmon and glam it up no end. I often use a mixture of white fish and smoked fish. To drink with the fish pie I recommend a Rully, a Sancerre or other Sauvignon Blanc. A sweet Marsala is lovely with the orange and almond tart.

In the interests of economy, I have planned the rest of the meal around the use of the oven. The first course is the very traditional French onion soup, inexpensive but glamorous enough to serve to guests. In fact, this whole meal lends itself very well to informal and inexpensive pre-Christmas entertaining.

Orange and almond tart

(Serves 6 to 8)

Pastry:
100g unsalted butter, softened
50g icing sugar
25g ground almonds
Pinch of salt
1 tablespoon orange flower water
1 tablespoon grated orange or mandarin zest
250g plain flour
1 egg, lightly beaten

Mix the butter, sugar, almonds and seasoning until you have a soft mass. Work in the flour and egg and let the pastry rest in the refrigerator.

Filling:
100g unsalted butter
100g caster sugar
75g ground almonds
25g plain flour, sifted
4 egg yolks, lightly beaten with
Juice and grated zest of 2 mandarins or oranges and
3 tablespoons orange flower water
2 egg whites, whisked
Garnish: icing sugar, flaked almonds or crystallised orange peel

Cream the butter and sugar and mix in the remaining ingredients, except the egg whites, which, once whisked, are gently folded in. Roll out the pastry and line a 23 to 25 cm quiche dish or tart ring.

Prick the base all over, cover with foil or greaseproof paper, weight down with baking beans and bake for 15 minutes in a pre-heated oven at 180℃, gas mark 4.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly before spooning in the filling. Indeed the tart can be baked blind the day before required.

Smooth the surface of the filling, and bake at 180℃, gas mark 4 for 35 to 40 minutes until the filling is just set and golden.

About 10 minutes before the end of baking, if you wish, scatter flaked almonds on top or pieces of crystallised orange peel.

Alternatively, dust the tart with icing sugar once it is completely cold.

Classic onion soup

(Serves 6 to 8)

5 or 6 large onions, peeled and thinly sliced
75g unsalted butter
Pinch of mace
200ml good dry red wine
2 litres beef broth
Seasoning

In a large heavy saucepan cook the onions very slowly in the butter to a soft translucency. It does not matter if they begin to turn golden; it is better that they do, since the sugar in the onions becomes more flavourful as it caramelises. However, they must not burn, which would make the soup bitter. When the onions are soft, add the mace and red wine. Raise the heat, and let the red wine almost evaporate. Stir in the beef broth, bring to the boil, season, and serve.

To dress it up, you can serve the soup French style. Toast bread on one side, and then float it, toast side down, on the bowl of soup and heap with grated Gruyère or Comté cheese.

Finish off in the top of a hot oven or under the grill. Sturdy, ovenproof soup bowls are essential in this recipe.

Fish, potato and spinach pie

(Serves 6 to 8)

800g fish fillet, skinned
450ml milk
1kg large potatoes
50g butter
25g flour
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg
4 eggs
200g (prepared weight) cooked, well-drained spinach

Lightly poach the fish in the milk; it does not need to be cooked through, simply firmed up. Remove with a fish slice, and allow to cool. Peel and boil the potatoes and use some of the milk and butter for mashing them until smooth and creamy. Season with salt and pepper.

Use the rest of the milk with the remaining butter and flour to make a smooth white sauce. Season to taste, adding plenty of nutmeg. Boil the eggs, shell and chop them small and mix into the sauce.

Lightly butter an ovenproof dish and spread the spinach over the base. Flake the fish and spoon it over the spinach. Spread the sauce over the fish and cover the whole with mashed potatoes. Run a fork over the top to mark a pattern.

Bake in a pre-heated oven, 200℃, gas mark 6 for about 20 minutes until the potatoes are nicely browned.