Gozo is considered an island paradise, a world away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. At present, it is bathing in late autumn sunlight, lying like the proverbial pot of gold floating on the shimmering blue sea at the end of the rainbow.
Synonymous with pastoral scenery alternating with frightening sheer cliffs and rugged wilderness trails, Gozo cannot be simply classified as a ramblers’ paradise. In the Maltese psyche it is a state of mind, a world apart, an ideal location for the feel-good factor, or perhaps even a notch higher - the feel-fantastic factor - rightly depicted as possessing a unique natural environment to soothe the mind, body and spirit.
Of course there is added value to a Gozo sojourn as layers of history unfold, stretching back in time, with the unique Ġgantija Temples and the island’s close association with Homer’s hero Ulysses and the sensuous nymph Calypso, with whom he spent seven amorous years on the sandy bay below the renowned cave.
Homer describes the enchanting scene: “Thick luxurious woods grew round the cave / adlers and black poplars, pungent cypress too / and there birds roosted, folding their long wings …../ Who came upon that place would gaze in wonder / Heart entranced with pleasure.” (Homer. The Odyssey v. 71-82).
In the historic Ramla l-Ħamra valley stands the Bronze Age village of In- Nuffara ( from tnaffar meaning to scare away) complete with silos on its windy top.
The ancient walled Cittadella reveals its rich Roman past while the medieval period is reflected in the benefices at the idyllic Wied il-Lunzjata once the property of Sibilla d’Aragona.
Rabat once had a unique monumental Angevin cemetery which was demolished in 1948. The Knights period is represented with the numerous watch towers dotting the coastline as well as the mighty Fort Chambray overlooking the quaint Mġarr Harbour.
The majestic baroque churches that characterise the quiet villages are a symbol of faith, culture and devotion that survives till the present day.
And nor is Gozo a cultural waste land; on the contrary it is a vibrant island throbbing with artistic events, an island that can boast of two active opera theatres.
Within moments of hitting Gozo for the occasional late autumn interlude, as far away from telephones, computers and the social media as is humanly possible, as soon as I set foot on this magic island a feeling of tranquility and relaxation engulfs me while imbibing what Lawrence Durrell calls “the spirit of place” now blossoming in a floral paradise as seen in the mind’s eyes of the mystic poet William Blake.
The sad inescapable truth is that tourism brutalises
One travels to Gozo in all seasons and for all reasons, not least to savour its interminable natural beauty as you wander along scenic paths and secluded bays. In late autumn and winter the island is immersed in the sheer beauty of wild flowers and wild thyme (sagħtar). It offers to the discerning rambler a floral paradise unsurpassed in the Maltese archipelago.
These walks are especially enjoyed if one ventures off the beaten track on the gentle slopes and rugged coastline. Now is the time when fields run to a riot of wild flowers as you ramble past fields of white and yellow mustard plants (ġarġir abjad/isfar), intermingled with patches of poppies and red clover (silla) and pathways bordered with the dainty cape sorrel (ħaxixa Ngliza) or the crown daisy (lellux).
At this time, the Gozitan flora is at its brilliant best as you encounter along the footpaths the exquisite Sweet Alison (buttuniera) with its lovely white flowers, the rare Travellers’ Joy (Il- Kiesħa), the Red Campion (ilsien l-Għasfur) with its pink petals, the violet Honey Wort (qniepen) with the hanging ‘bells’ and hundreds of other species that make our islands’ flora unique.
As you trek in this blossomed paradise you smell the intoxicating fragrance of the wild thyme, home of the Gozitan honeybee and the sweet scent of the yellow flowered fennel (busbies). Close by you can admire the shimmering blue sea and the geological features of the coastal zone.
The fertile green valleys leading down to the sea give meaning to Gozo’s unofficial coat-of-arms and motto: Fertilis Ab Undis Caput Effero. Loosely translated it means “I raise a fertile head from the sea”. At this time of the year Gozo beckons. Its many varied natural delights are best savoured at this time of the year.
Recently I was utterly shocked to read what the erudite scholar Julius Norwich, author of histories of Venice, Sicily and Byzantium, had to say about the ill effects of unbridled tourism.
I quote him to sound a word of warning to ensure that our islands do not lose the overwhelming hospitality and the high standards of quality and self-esteem.
Norwich bares open these facts, stating: “The sad inescapable truth is that tourism brutalises – it brutalises not only the tourist himself but also those who minister to his needs. Self-respect gives place to servility, good manners to surliness, open friendliness and hospitality to cupidity and suspicion.”
Gozo is still immune to these aberrations and it is my pious hope that our islands will continue to guard themselves steadfastly against these impending evils. I am glad to say that Gozo has retained its uniqueness particularly displayed in the off-season.
May the good Lord give the wisdom, passion and commitment to all those responsible for our natural environment to conserve, preserve and protect this natural patrimony for the enjoyment of future generations.
Lino Bugeja is honorary president of the Ramblers’ Association.