Organic wine is going down a treat. In Australia, one of the largest wine producing countries in the world, organic wine accounts for almost seven per cent of the total organic market, with organic grape production increasing by 120 per cent between 2011 and 2014. In Italy, another leading wine producing country, more than eight per cent of vineyards are organic. And in the US, which has been the largest wine consuming nation since 2010, 16 per cent of consumers are now buying organic, biodynamic and sustainable wine.
Despite the rising interest in organic wine, this is not some recent trend. Centuries ago, this is how wine used to be made: without the use of artificial fertilisers and pesticides.
But beyond the label, what is organic wine? At its most simple definition, organic wine is made from organic fruits that are grown by only using natural and non-artificial chemical fertilisers, pesticides or fungicides. The process is also organic. For instance, to control weeds, organic farmers use nature as their ally. They introduce cover crops to create a habitat for beneficial insects and have sheep graze on the grass and weeds growing between the vine rows.
Organic wine is also preserved in an organic manner, without the use of synthetic preservatives, colours, taste-makers or reagents.
By working in favour, rather than against nature, the vineyard is thus transformed into a natural ecosystem which is self-regulating and eliminates the need for artificial chemicals.
But in reality, how many chemicals could a glass of wine contain? The relative simplicity of wine making would make us believe that there is hardly the need to use artificial ingredients to make good wine. However, according to EcoVine Wine, which is one of the most respected wine clubs in the US, a bottle of conventionally produced wine may contain up to 250 different types of chemicals.
Does that mean that organic wines are free from chemicals such as sulfites? In theory, yes. However, organic wines do contain naturally occurring sulfites, which are nature’s way of protecting plants from harmful microbes. In wine, natural sulfites are also produced when grapes are fermenting. According to EcoVine Wine, the amount of naturally occurring sulfites in 100 per cent organic wine ranges from six to 40 parts per million. On the other hand, conventional non-organic wines may contain sulfite levels of up to 350 parts per million.
Organic wine is regulated through a certification process. This certification is provided by an independent, third-party organisation which carries out audits on vineyards that apply for an organic certification. In most countries, certification is strict. In the US, where certification is handled by state, non-profit and private agencies that have been approved by the USDA, organic wine must be made from 95 per cent organically grown ingredients. In Europe, European Union regulation also states that only foods containing at least 95 per cent ingredients can be labelled as organic. EU regulation also states that the only genetically modified organisms allowed are those which are accidental or technically unavoidable.
For wine drinkers, however, what is the benefit of choosing organic over conventional wine? Various studies show that, as with all food that is produced without the use of chemicals, organic wine carries various health benefits. However, for most people, the choice to drink organic wine comes down to taste. And organic wine has that complex, pure and delicious taste that makes us reach for the bottle.