No hunting has been allowed on the Danube Delta for the past five years and the results are spectacular. I was there to enjoy the unspoilt natural beauty and to capture the essence of the river’s wildlife and fishermen, an experience that is perhaps rare on this side of the world.

The Delta today is slowly emerging as an unlikely tourist destination for many Europeans looking for something different. The waters of the Danube, which flow into the Black Sea, form Europe’s largest and best preserved wetland areas and is a wildlife enthusiast’s dream. The Danube Delta is still surprisingly wild and relatively undestroyed, hosting over 300 species of birds and harbouring the largest number of fish species and the highest concentration of bird colonies anywhere in Europe.

Getting ready for the day’s fishing.Getting ready for the day’s fishing.

The Delta consists of 2,200 square miles of rivers, canals, marshes, tree-fringed lakes and reed islands. It offers the ideal breeding ground for countless species of birds, some of them from as far away as China and Africa.

Millions of Egyptian white pelicans arrive here every spring to raise their young, while equal numbers of Arctic geese come here to escape the harsh winters of Northern Europe. The bird watching season lasts from early spring to late summer.

From Bucharest, we travelled by train (with hindsight, it would have been quicker to drive) to the town of Tulcea, located on the banks of the Danube in the east of Romania.

This is the perfect place from which to explore the Danube Delta, either as part of a Danube River Cruise or on day trips and boat excursions.

I organised a three-day private trip with Gelu, a long standing friend and fisherman at heart, accompanied us and was our guide.

The Delta is formed around the three main channels of the Danube, each named after their respective ports: via Ismail to Chilia (in the north); via Maliuc, Crisan to Sulina (in the middle); and through Nufaru, Mahmudia, to Sfantu Gheorghe (in the south).

These fishermen use the same fishing methods handed down to them since the 18th century

We took the route to Sulina by ferry and, after two hours, disembarked at Crishan. Here, Gelu’s little speedboat was waiting to take us to the Europolis Hotel house boat, just five minutes away along a secluded tributary.

After refreshments and a meal, we set off at 7.30pm along a quiet channel to meet a group of Lipovan fishermen whom I wanted to photograph. These fishermen have continued to use the same fishing methods handed down to them since the 18th century. The Lipovans are a Christian community that fled persecution in Russia and settled in the Delta, creating their own dialect. Fishing is the most extensive natural resource, but catches are declining as is this way of life, making living harder for the local fishermen.

Pelicans enjoy breakfast.Pelicans enjoy breakfast.

When we reached the fishermen’s camp, we found that they were still out on the river, putting down their nets for the night so we decided to go to Lake Bogdaproste. There, I was able to capture the sunset on a very clear night, the water a sheet of glass and not a sound to be heard. What heavenly peace!

We made our way back to the Lipovan fisherman, who invited us to sit down, share some strong homemade plum tuica (a traditional Romanian alcohol spirit, 45% proof) and freshly caught fish that was being cooked on a makeshift grill.

After many toasts and glasses of tuica, we made our way back in the dark to the house boat in a zig-zag fashion, trying our best to avoid the fallen trees and weeds, only with a torch to guide us home.

Getting the fishing nets ready.Getting the fishing nets ready.

On the second day we left at about 8.15am and the air was already full of small birds darting in and out of the reeds; the temperature is still cool at this hour, with the wildlife fully active. The Delta is home to the world’s largest reed bed expanse, which can be some four to five metres high in places, harvested for export as roofing material and fencing locally.

We eventually met up again with the fishermen from the night before; they were hauling up their catches, one even selling some fish to a group anglers who had caught nothing that morning and had no wish to return home empty-handed. This chance meeting was followed by the customary greeting – mug of the home made wine spritzer as a starter followed by some more tuika for breakfast!

We then went down a number of narrow tributaries looking specifically to photograph wildlife and specifically targetting us to lakes Bogdaproste and Lake Trei Lezere.

We were greeted by the most amazing sight of over a 1,000 pelicans having breakfast

Upon arrival, we were greeted by the most amazing sight of what looked like a whole colony of over a 1,000 pelicans having breakfast, eating the fish caught in the fisherman’s nets, groups of cormorants and herons eating what was left over.

To our right, I could also see hundreds of pelicans flying in formation into the lake and, after half-an-hour or so, we found ourselves bang in the middle of a semi-circle surrounded by thousands of birds. We managed to get within 25 metres of the pelicans before they got spooked by our presence.

Checking out the day’s catch.Checking out the day’s catch.

We later travelled along small tributaries and along one, we found several nests and dozens of young cygnets, their parents hissing at us as soon as we drifted too close.

After that, it was time for a cold beer as we stopped off at Mila 23, a very small hamlet by the Delta. We had been told that the oldest Lipovan male lived there and, indeed, I found him sitting next to his grandson, who was mending his nets and was very happy to be photographed.

After some liquid refreshment, we filled up with petrol. We were surprised to see the German Shepherd that had been sitting peacefully by the pump come over, his mouth open. Turned out, the dog carries the customers’ payment to the cashier and then brings back the change. Had I not seen this myself, I certainly would not have believed it.

Our guide then took us further afield, in the hope we might see some storks. We did manage to find three at Canal Visina; these birds are more migratory than pelicans. Unfortunately, they flew off as soon as we approached.

The Delta is home to some of the most beautiful sunsets.The Delta is home to some of the most beautiful sunsets.

On our final day we went out looking for storks to photograph, but none were to be found. Thus, we made our way back to the ferry terminal at Crishan and started the long, slow, but pleasurable journey back to Tulcea.

As we approached Partizani, we saw from a distance several nests of storks on telegraph poles. Such poles are a favourite place to build nests along the Delta, even in the countryside. We managed to see three storks in one nest, which is unusual.

On the journey back, we passed a number of boats, ships and transporters carrying anything from fuel, cars, building materials, food, even vans. In the Danube Delta, navigation of the narrow channels is mainly by boat or ferries. There are many areas where roads do not exist and the Danube is an important supply route for basic necessities. Sulina is only accessible by boat.

www.romaniatourism.com/tulcea.html

Danube data

The Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve has the third largest biodiversity in the world (over 5,500 flora and fauna species), exceeded only by the Great Barrier Reef in Australia and the Galapagos Archipelago in Ecuador.

The Danube Delta is home to over 60 per cent of the world’s population of pygmy cormorants, 50 per cent of red-breasted geese and the largest number of white and Dalmatian pelicans in Europe.

Some 15,000 people inhabit the Delta area, living in 28 villages and one city.

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