There’s something undeniably romantic about rail travel: strangers dunking their minds in thoughts, the muffled rush of air through a tunnel, and the dark train stations at night, as lonely as an Edward Hopper painting. And all the while, the backdrop to your journey is constantly changing from fleeting rivers and mountains to your misted breath mimicking the clouds on the horizon.
Compared to air travel, trains are more civilised, authentic and as much a part of the journey as your luggage, especially if you’re in a first class sleeper.
Of course, classic long distance trains get all the fame. The Trans-Siberian is one of the greatest adventures you can have sitting down. Travelling from Pretoria to Cape Town on board Rovos Rails is the ultimate in grand, luxurious travel: cue wood panelled sleepers with double beds and showers, cakes, cream and tea served on the observation deck, and dinner under the stars of a glittering crystal chandelier.
The train snakes and loops through spiral tunnels, glaciers and snow-capped mountain peaks
Then there’s the slow crawl from Cuzco to Machu Picchu in Peru: board the luxury Hiram Bingham train and enjoy the views of the Sacred Valley, Urubamba river and towering green peaks while sipping a pisco sour cocktail.
The train journey from Colombo to Kandy in Sri Lanka is a bit rougher: if you don’t book first class, the cabins smell of sweat and you might have to share a seat with a family of six and their pet chicken. But the journey has such character. You will roll past tea plantations and jungle while climbing up into the forests which surround Kandy. And every time the train stops, food vendors tap on your window, trying to convince you that their roti, samosas and ulundhu vadai – which are spicy fritters made from daal – are marvellously tasty. You will not need much convincing.
Yet to recapture the romance of rail journeys, you don’t have to travel outside Europe because the old continent has its fair share of scenic trips.
Paris to Istanbul
This itinerary starts from the romantic capital not just of France, but of the world, and journeys to the mysterious beauty of Istanbul. The best way to do this itinerary is on board the Orient Express.
Board the Venice Simplon-Orient Express at the Gare de l’Est, where the steward will greet you and take you to your cabin and serve you afternoon tea. The train itself is an art deco work of art, perfectly showcasing the vintage cabins and gastronomic delights calling from the dining cabin.
Then onwards to two overnight stays, the first in Budapest and the second in Bucharest. After five nights, the journey ends in Istanbul. But in truth, the journey will never end because you will remember it forever.
A similarly pampering alternative is to travel from Venice to Istanbul on board a Golden Eagle luxury train. Admittedly, the Balkan Explorer tour isn’t cheap – for 2016, the price of a twin cabin in deluxe class nudges the €15,000 mark per person. If you have the budget, go for it. The train departs from Venice and will make its way to Trieste and then through Croatia, Serbia, Macedonia and Greece. You will arrive in Istanbul, where you will be treated to a three-day tour of the city.
The Bergen Line, Norway
This journey is not for those who suffer a fear of heights because on its way from Oslo to Bergen, the train snakes and loops through spiral tunnels, glaciers and snow-capped mountain peaks. But if you can look down vertiginous heights without breaking into a sweat, then this journey will reward you with some of the best scenery in Europe.
Glasgow to Mallaig, Scotland
Britain can be wild, especially up north where the fierce weather marries the savage beauty of the landscape. The Road to the Isles, a 660-kilometre spread, takes you from Glasgow to Mallaig. As the city disappears, the train will pick up speed and from your window, you can enjoy the sights of waterfalls, mountains, castles and moors. The climax is the sight of Ben Nevis hunched over the landscape.
London to Rome
The journey from London to the eternal city may be a fast affair on board the modern TGV train. However, it will take you back to the roaring 1920s, when connecting the two great capitals was one of the main achievements of railway travel. Change trains in Paris or Milan – where you can stop for a quick city tour – and arrive at the Stazione Termini for your Roman holiday.
Davos, Switzerland to Tirano, Italy
The whole point of a holiday is investing time in something which has no resemblance to work. And you’ll definitely need time to travel from Davos to Tirano because the Bernina Express – contrary to what its name might hint at – must be one of the slowest trains in the world. Travelling at 30km/h, the train connects the highest city in Europe to the walled Italian city.
Admittedly, the train is slow. However, you wouldn’t want it to go any faster because you need time to enjoy the panorama of chasms and mountains. The track itself is an engineering feat as it navigates 196 bridges and 55 tunnels. In fact, the track is so impressive that it has been given the status of Unesco World Heritage Site.
Messina to Catania, Sicily
You don’t have to spend the night to enjoy rail travel. In fact, the trip from Messina to Catania will only take one hour and a half. However, that short time span is packed with scenic views as the train makes its way along the coast, in full view of the Ionian sea and the rocky Mediterranean coastline.
Flam to Myrdal, Norway
The journey from Flam to Myrdal will only take you an hour. But it will be one of your finest hours because the Flam Railway summarises the beauty of the fjord country in a best-of compilation. The track rises from Aurlandsfjord and climbs up to the mountain plateau of Myrdal, taking in the Rjoandefossen and Kjosfossen waterfalls on the way.