Qormi’s annual two-day wine festival is all set to kick off this evening. Keith Micallef met the organisers to ask about the historical roots of viticulture in this locality, which is rather more famous for its bakers.

Paul Zammit has been involved in the festival organised by Kumitat Festi Esterni San Ġorġ since its very first edition in 2004.

Paul Zammit has been involved in the festival since 2004.

“Our long tradition with wine is evident from the ancient coat of arms which used to be adorned with vine leaves. Unfortunately, when the local councils adopted the official emblem two decades ago, this feature was not included,” he said.

Mr Zammit noted how some historians believe that the name Qormi was derived from the Greek term cherem or carmi, which means ‘vines’.

Marsovin, a household name in the local wine industry for almost 100 years also has its roots in Qormi, as its founder Chev. Anthony Cassar, or Is-Sur Tonin, as he was more commonly known, hailed from this village.

By the late 1970s, the Qormi wine bars became practically extinct

Up to the Second World War there were more than 30 wine bars, along Main Street and St Francis Square alone. Each one of them bore the family’s nickname and served tea in the morning and wine at night. Ta’ Majsi, Taż-Żużu, Ta’ Venew and Ta’ Kurun are just some examples.

One of the Qormi wine festival organisers holding an old photo taken in St Benedict Street.

At their peak, some of these taverns used to produce the wine themselves, either from imported grapes or from the local grape harvest.

“However, Qormi’s association with wine also stemmed from the fact there used to be several vineyards in the area around Mill Street, close to Santa Venera,” Mr Zammit pointed out.

Nowadays the area is unrecognisable, as it is home to several corporate headquarters and partly an industrial zone.

Most of this agricultural land was eaten up in the second half of the last century, when Qormi’s soaring population resulted in residential and industrial development on its outskirts.

As for the wine bars themselves, the fatal blow was dealt by the harsh competition from the major wine producers which established themselves in the post-war period, and by the rise in popularity of beer at its expense.

“By the late 1970s, the Qormi wine bars became practically extinct, as they had all closed down,” Mr Zammit said.

The old Qormi coat of arms adorned with vine leaves.

However, there are signs of a slow revival. Six years ago, Karl Cardona took the gamble of converting an old house in the heart of Qormi, close to the St George’s parish church, into a wine bar.

“At the time it was a huge risk, as this is not a touristic area, but it paid off as the business is now thriving, with clients from various parts of the island,” he said.

“Apart from the wine, patrons also enjoy the historical surroundings and the traditional Maltese food – which obviously includes bread,” he said.

The Qormi Wine Festival starts tonight at 8pm near St George’s Church. Apart from live entertainment, the event will include a contest for amateur vintners, traditional Maltese foods and a selection of locally produced wines.