Yorkshire Day is celebrated on August 1, and in celebration of my birthplace, inspired by its rich local produce and its traditions, I offer a handful of very easy recipes, including a flavoursome kipper paste and devilled fish steaks.
Sadly, with the decline of herring fishing generally, the herrings used in the Whitby smokehouses are no longer locally landed, but from Iceland and Norway. The recipe will work with any kippers, however, even kipper fillets. And also with smoked mackerel or eel.
The fish recipe is inspired by the Scarborough cod we used to eat for Friday supper, but the spices are my later addition. And the recipe works beautifully with any firm white fish.
The veal and oyster combination was one of the most popular dishes I put on my menu when I was guest chef in Bangkok some years ago, and I recommend it as a very sumptuous main course for a special occasion.
Some of the recipes, such as the curd tart, are favourite dishes from my childhood, very representative of the long tradition of baking in rural Britain, and especially in Yorkshire, whose inhabitants do have a tendency to claim most good things as their own. Indeed, who could argue against apple pie with Wensleydale, sticky gingercake and crisp golden Yorkshire puddings? Wilfra tart is another speciality. Wilfra or St Wilfred’s Day is celebrated in Ripon, Yorkshire, at the beginning of August, the original summer bank holiday in Britain and probably the origin of Yorkshire Day.
This rather plain almond tart is very good served with a compote of soft fruits as a pudding and also cuts well cold at teatime or with coffee.
From these recipes, you can serve an entire Yorkshire meal, the full monty as it were, or individual dishes can be added at any given point in the meal. Together, though, using the kipper paste on toast as an appetiser with drinks, they do make for a marvellous Sunday lunch.
For a less copious lunch, use the kipper paste as a first course, serving it in individual ramekins, or scoop on to salad leaves. Then serve the cod or veal, as you prefer.
The recipes also adapt readily to greater numbers. For example, the main course of veal and oyster collops can be cooked as a whole fillet of veal for eight to 10 people. In this case, cut open the fillet horizontally and open out,book fashion.
Season the meat, adding some chopped chervil and tarragon if you wish, and arrange the shucked oysters along its length. Grate on lemon zest, close up the fillet and tie it in enough places to stop the filling from falling out.
Brush with softened butter, place in a roasting bag and roast for about 45 minutes to an hour (for a fillet weighing about 1.25 kg) at 200˚C.
As with all large pieces of meat, the veal should be allowed to rest before carving. A similar recipe can be made with beef fillet, and the dish is then known as carpet bag steak.
Make individual portions or stuff the whole beef fillet as described above.
Kipper paste
(Serves 6)
1 large kipper
2 bay leaves
100g unsalted butter, softened
Hard-boiled yolks of 3 eggs
Freshly ground black pepper
Clarified butter – see below
Put the kipper and bay leaves in a large jug or bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave until cool enough to handle. Pour away the water and remove the kipper flesh from bone, as carefully as you can – the bones are very fine.
In a food processor or with pestle and mortar, pound the fish with the softened butter and egg yolks and add pepper to taste. If you like, and I generally do, you can add a pinch of mace or nutmeg to the paste.
Unless you are using it immediately, pack the kipper paste into a container or ramekins, smooth the top and cover with a layer of melted clarified butter. This is very good served with brown bread, fresh or toasted.
Devilled fish
(Serves 6)
1 tbsp medium curry paste, or more to taste
2 tbsps good quality mango or other fruity chutney
1 tsp dry mustard
1 tsp anchovy paste
2 tbsps softened butter
6 firm white fish steaks or fillets
Mix the first five ingredients and coat the top of each steak or fillet with it. Place the fish in a buttered oven-proof dish and bake in a moderate oven, 180˚C, Gas 4, until the fish is just opaque or done to your liking.
Timing will depend on whether you have broad, thin pieces, or small, thick ones. Cooking fish until it flakes is, in my view, overcooking it. The fish will continue to cook as you take it out of the oven and when you do so, it should still have a slight resistance to the bone.
Cook’s note: this dish is lovely served with Basmati rice scented and flavoured with plenty of grated lemon zest, coriander and cardamom seeds.
Veal and oyster collops
(Serves 6)
6 x 200g pieces of veal fillet
12 fresh oysters
Seasoned flour
1 egg
Breadcrumbs
25g butter
Lemon slices for garnish
Remove the oysters from their shells, and reserve the liquid. Cut a slit in each piece of veal with the point of a sharp knife and stuff with two oysters. Dust with seasoned flour, brush with beaten egg and coat with breadcrumbs. Fry in butter until the meat is tender and the outside golden brown.
Make a gravy with the pan juices and the reserve oyster liquid. Pour over the veal and garnish with lemon slices.
The perfect curd tart
(Serves 6 to 8)
250g rich shortcrust pastry
500g smooth curd cheese or ricotta
150ml cream
100g caster sugar
1 or 2 tbsps rosewater
Grated zest of a lemon
Freshly grated nutmeg
4 eggs
100g sultanas
Line a greased and floured tart tin or quiche dish with the pastry. Prick the bottom and bake blind for 10 to 12 minutes at 200˚C, Gas 6.
Let the pastry cool and lower the oven temperature to 180˚C, Gas 4.
Beat the curds with the rest of the ingredients until smooth. Scatter the sultanas in the bottom of the pastry case. Pour the curd mixture over them and bake for about 40 minutes until set.
The surface should not brown but remain pale. Serve warm or cold, lightly dusted with freshly grated nutmeg or apricot chunks.
Wilfra tart
(Serves 6)
250g sweet shortcrust pastry
300ml full cream milk
25g soft white breadcrumbs
50g ground almonds
25g caster sugar
Grated rind of a lemon
125g unsalted butter
3 eggs, separated
Roll out the pastry, line a 20cm tart tin or quiche dish and place on a baking sheet. Put the milk in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from heat and stir in the breadcrumbs and ground almonds.
Leave for five to 10 minutes and then stir in the lemon rind, butter and egg yolks. Beat until smooth. Whisk the egg whites, fold into the mixture and spoon into the pastry case.
Bake in a preheated oven at 180˚C, Gas 4, for 30 to 35 minutes until the filling is set and the top pale gold.