Ancient Chinese palaces never fail to impress with their distinguished architectural designs and their exquisite use of space.

Moreover, each site is endowed with a rich history and a compelling narrative.

It is certainly no wonder that thousands of people, both local and foreign, visit each day.

I had thought that I had seen it all in Beijing, but a wonderful surprise awaited when I was accompanied to the Summer Palace.

Considered to be one of the major architectural gems that dates back to the Qing Dynasty, this palace is renowned to be the best-preserved imperial garden in the world, and the largest of its kind still in China.

As I walked through its splendour and noticed its fine ambience bustling with people coming from all nations, I admired the palace’s beauty and its sense of serenity and happiness.

Yet, as our Chinese guide revealed its turbulent history and several attempts to destroy it completely, I was awestruck by the utter determination showed along the years in order to reconstruct, preserve and protect this significant monument of Chinese resilience.

The Summer Palace

The Summer Palace is in the northwest suburbs of Beijing, occupying an area of about 2,900,000 square metres and its structures include numerous halls, towers, galleries, pavilions and bridges.

These are divided between three sections: the administrative area, the imperial residential area and the scenic area.

Meanwhile, the palace is surrounded by a vast garden that incorporates a hill, known as Longevity Hill, and Kunming Lake, which receives its water from the springs of Yuquanshan or as it is known in China, Jade Spring Hill.

A marvel envisaged by Kublai Khan

During the 12th century, Emperor Zhangzong of the Jin Dynasty started to construct his temporary palace in this area. Later on, in the 13th century, Emperor Kublai Khan of the Yuan Dynasty, ordered to Guo Shoujing, a renowned hydraulic engineer, to find a system with which to channel water from Jade Spring Hill to the foot of Jar Hill.

After considering this demand, Guo succeeded to adhere to the emperor’s request by dredging and expanding the lake into a large reservoir, which today is known as West Lake.

Creating classical gardens

In 1494, Emperor Xiaozong of the Ming Dynasty, ordered the construction of the Temple of Perfection and Tranquility.

Then, in the 16th century, Emperor Wuzong of the Ming Dynasty built the Garden of Marvellous Hill on the site.

It seems that there came a time when this area was abandoned.

However, by the 18th century, the architecture of Chinese classical gardens reached an unprecedented peak, after it had inherited and synthesised all the artistic achievements of past dynasties.

In this period the leaders of the Qing Dynasty decided to transform this place into a spacious location in which to relax.

Eventually, this idea led to the creation of The Three Hills and Five Gardens.

A garden for the Emperor’s mother

In 1750, Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty had the Garden of Clear Ripples built in order to celebrate the 60th birthday of his mother Empress Dowager Xiaosheng.

This garden formed part of The Three Hills and Five Gardens. During its construction, there were some changes in the name of some locations, namely, Jar Hill was changed to Longevity Hill and West Lake became known as Kunming Lake.

It took 15 years to complete the garden and by then, the Emperor’s mother had died.

Nonetheless, once it was finished, the garden was one of the most refined in China.

The palace under attack

Yet, in 1860, the Anglo-French troops invaded Beijing and the garden fell victim to their plunder and violence.

Its treasures were stolen and the palace’s wooden structures were set on fire, resulting in their utter destruction.

Hope was rekindled when, in 1885, Empress Dowager Cixi, who had been holding court from behind a screen for years, decided to renovate the garden by using the navy outlay.

Her project was finished by 1888 and she renamed this place as the Garden of Harmonious Preservation, or the Summer Palace, as it is known to foreigners today.

Unfortunately, in 1900, this site was attacked again, this time by the forces of the Eight-Nation Alliance.

These invaders stole all the valuables and, once again, destroyed all the buildings.

A Unesco World Heritage site

By now, the Qing Dynasty was suffering from great financial shortage and there was simply no way to allocate further money to restore this site.

Therefore, in 1902, Cixi reconstructed only the front of Longevity Hill and the eastern part of the Summer Palace.

After the 1911 Revolution, in which the Qing court was overthrown, the palace served as the residence of the formal imperial family, until in 1920 this site was turned into a park.

In 1949, after the founding of the People’s Republic of China, the Summer Palace’s garden was restored.

Finally, in 1998, this palace was included in the Unesco World Heritage List.

The Summer Palace today

Certainly, after becoming aware of its history, I could not help but feel even more admiration for this particular palace.

Although much of it has been lost throughout the centuries, I was impressed by the regal aura in the surviving architecture. The opportunity to walk through some of its halls and pavilions is a privilege and the views that can be enjoyed from its high towers are nothing less than spectacular.

The Long Corridor

This long passageway that faces Kunming Lake is 728m long.

It consists of 273 sections that are decorated with around 14,000 traditional Chinese paintings, which include a wide range of subjects such as flowers, trees, historical and legendary figures, folkloristic tales, episodes from important classical Chinese literature and popular scenes.

Marble boat

This huge structure in the shape of a boat was constructed in 1775 at the northwest side of Kunming Lake.

Its function was to serve as a relaxing corner for Emperor Qianlong, from which he could view the wonderful scenery.

It was also meant to symbolise the stability of the Qing Dynasty.

However, it is said that, in 1860, the structure was destroyed and Empress Dowager Cixi reconstructed it in Western style and gave it the name of Qingyanfang, which meant Universal Peace.

Kunming Lake

This lake covers nearly three quarters of the area of the Summer Palace.

Its water is very still and not very deep since previous Chinese rulers believed that quiet and peaceful things were good for their longevity and for the overall stability of the country.

A boat ride on this lake will offer a different perspective of the palace and its gardens.

It is delightful to observe that from spring to autumn, lotus leaves and flowers cover the lake’s water close to the shore, creating a scene that is typical in traditional Chinese paintings. Swimming is not allowed in the lake but in mid-winter, when its water often freezes, people can skate on the surface.

An ideal place to meet the local people

Although numerous tourists and locals flock to this place each day, nothing seems to be able to completely fill up its colossal capacity.

While foreigners wander around to discover the area, many locals gather in this cherished palace in order to meet together, play various games, dance, knit, paint and draw, sing and play music.

If, like me, you have a sincere interest in observing humanity, this is definitely the ultimate place to be in.