Like a twisting kaleidoscope, Budapest dazzled me with its colours and attractions.

Upon my arrival I was keen to dump my bags in my friend’s living room and head straight out, following the flowing Danube to take in the city’s charm, and Budapest did not disappoint.

It sparkled in the sunlight and instantly the grand buildings that are dotted charmed me – together with a dense population of statues on every turn.

Some communist statues were even mopped up and kept at Memento Park, which has served as their resting space since the fall of communism.

Hungarians are friendly people who will engage in a full debate on whether you need a haircut after asking directions to the nearest barber.

Indeed, my first interaction with a local was a complete surprise as after asking a young, blonde woman for directions to the market, she was happy to take me for a coffee in one of the many squares and help plan my first day.

I was offered ‘chimney cake’, at which I scoffed at first, wondering if my new friend was a drug dealer looking to sell a dodgy cigarette.

However, I was pleasantly surprised when a large tube of cinnamon-dusted dough came my way and filled me for the day.

The central market was top of my list. It has three storeys crammed with stalls selling everything, from kids’ toys to tonight’s dinner and a good selection of Palinka, Hungary’s famed whisky.

The market is a fantastic crossroad for locals and tourists and you can stuff yourself tasting all the different salami on sale. It might take a while to get used to spending thousands of forints on every purchase, but do not be alarmed as Budapest is not an expensive city, with cheap hostels and restaurants scattered around the place.

Wandering around Budapest aimlessly, it is not hard to notice the Communist backbone that shaped the city.

Horrible concrete structures are squeezed in next to the most elaborately-designed buildings from its slightly richer past within the Austro-Hungarian empire.

Massive streets are lined with buildings intricately decorated with lions’ heads, life-sized stone statues of princes and kings, and, curiously, dogs holding swords and shields.

Each step sent my head whirling in each direction as I tried to inspect every beautiful building that may today host students of Hungary’s 12 universities, but once were home to European aristocrats.

Budapest’s young residents will guide you to its many squares where people gather to gossip and drink ridiculous amounts of fresh lemonade. I spent the rest of my afternoon people watching near the Budapest Wheel, where hundreds basked in the glorious sunshine, cooling their feet in the water fountain.

Getting ruined in Budapest was not part of my plan. However, this city has an amazing approach to recycling waste.

Its past follows you everywhere

People started a trait called Ruin Pubs, taking over old, derelict buildings and reshaping them into pubs. While this practice is not uncommon anywhere, in Pest they do it while keeping the ruin intact, filling it with whatever rubbish people want to throw away.

Szimpla Kert is cluttered with fascinating items, such as a bath tub as a sofa, old Super-8 projectors showing black and white movies, retro cars as table booths and graffiti instead of wall paint.

The owners gave artists freedom to create whatever they desired, and the result is a fascinating blend of organised chaos that keeps the beers flowing.

If Szimpla doesn’t appeal, then a few metres down you can find a club specialising in the ‘top 40 of sleazy hits’.

Smoke machines hide everyone’s embarrassing dance moves and once you emerge as a sweaty, slobby mess, the evening walk will take your breath away.

Budapest glows at night, with each building lit up proudly, guiding you along the romantic Danube overlooking the ancient castles of Buda opposite the grand Parliament building.

On my way home, I stumbled across a tiny flower shop selling an assortment of bouquets and booze at 4.30am. I left with a bunch and wondered if I could pass it through Customs the next day.

Budapest, as every local will constantly remind you, was once two cities: Buda, housing the rich, and Pest, where I spent most of my days.

Joined by Chain Bridge and its lion statues, Buda’s beautiful lights lure you in like a bug to a bulb. The castle district looks like it belongs on a movie set and the views from the Citadel are breathtaking.

Sandwiched between Buda and Pest you can also wander on to Margaret Island, one of my favourite features – a whole island dedicated to sports, housing tennis courts, handball and basketball courts, rowing clubs, football pitches roped together by a jogging track.

No driving is allowed on the island, which makes it a prime spot for runners.

I walked until my feet were steaming, strolling from one wonder to another and was particularly impressed by the Fisherman’s Basilica’s patterned roof, a gentle reminder of Hungary’s importance to Europe in its heyday.

Its past follows you everywhere, and the horrific suffering of the Jewish community is also noted with a monument of shoes placed along the Danube, which saw the execution of thousands of Jewish settlers during World War II.

I decided to finally take a break, so I headed to the Szechenyi Baths.

This huge spa will soothe every ache and help you catch your breath, as you switch between the cold and warm sections.

To carry on with your relaxing session, the outdoor park will welcome you and by sheer serendipity I happened to catch some folk dancing in front of Heroes’ Square, a collection of (more) statues celebrating the people who died fighting for the country’s freedom.

Although I crammed as much as I could into a short stay, I feel a return to Budapest is on the cards, perhaps next time renting a car and heading to the neighbouring countries, soaking up the culture and history that lace the region together.

I was lucky with the weather in June. However, the Danube is known to freeze over during some winters, so pick your dates for this grand capital wisely.