With summer fast approaching, I thought of highlighting an Italian wine region from where some of my favourite whites originate.
Campania is found in southwest Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea with Naples as its capital. It has a Mediterranean climate, with lots of sunshine and light, but also a lot of hills – an ideal combination for Mediterranean viticulture, while the soils are mainly volcanic from ancient eruptions of the Vesuvius. It is these geological and climatic conditions which disguise most of the characteristic traits of a southern, warm climate white wine.
I don’t think I would be exaggerating much if I said that this region is probably the oldest and the longest reputed fine wine region in the world. The reputation of some wines, areas and varieties found in this southern Italian region go right back to early and Middle Roman times.
As today we talk of Bordeaux and Tuscany, Petrus and Sassicaia, the Romans held the wines of Massico, Surrentine and, of course, Falernian in the same esteem. For hundreds of years these were the most famous wines in the Roman world.
However, in the modern wine world, it is only relatively recently that local wine growers managed to take advantage of Campania’s ideal soils and climate to produce exciting, interesting and, very often, unique wines from unique grape varieties.
Mastroberardino were, of course, instrumental in getting these wines known to the wine drinking world but today many other producers have followed suit. It is indeed very commendable that this Italian wine region has built its modern reputation on ancient and very local grape varieties. Thankfully, many are available here in Malta.
White grape varieties
It is indeed very commendable that this Italian wine region has built its modern reputation on ancient and very local grape varieties
The most important four white grape varieties are Falanghina, Greco di Tufo, Fiano and Coda di Volpe, with the latter being the least interesting.
Falanghina, whose name recalls the stakes that are used to hold vines in a vineyard, produces very citrussy, fresh, clean and crisp wine, generally with an alcohol level of between 12 and 12.5 per cent. It is ideal for drinking (in moderation) on boats and our general summer living. And it is excellent with fish dishes.
Greco di Tufo is also an ancient variety. (There is also a red Greco). This is much fuller-bodied wine with a generally more intense yellow colour due to the phenolic richness of the variety. Some say it resembles Viognier. This has flavours of red apple, ripe peaches and a herbal undertone.
Alcohol levels can reach 13 per cent or more and therefore pull quite a punch. When balanced and with good acidity levels, Greco can produce wines that can offer much more complexity after three or four years in bottle. These are ideal for summer evening dinners.
The difficult-to-cultivate Fiano is mostly known for its use in DOCG Fiano di Avellino; however, it is found elsewhere in Campania (and in Sicily). Although light in colour, Fiano can produce relatively full wines with floral and honey flavours. The best can also age well in bottle and is a good accompaniment to food.
Favourite producers
As already mentioned, Mastroberdino is probably the most famous producer but others are equally worth looking at. An offshoot of the aforementioned is Terredora di Paolo, whose director is Walter Mastroberdino.
Walter started the company in 1994 after a family disagreement. Maria Avallone, whose father Franceso initiated an in-depth study into classic texts to find what wines the Romans drank, runs the excellent Villa Matilde.
One of the most forward and dynamic producers are, without doubt, Feudi di San Gregorio. Equally interesting are Villa Raiano, Vesevo and Antica Irpinia.
Of course, the region also produces red wines, the most important of which is DOCG Taurasi. I think that it is with their whites that Campagnia producers really excel.
Another advantage to Campanian whites is that they are generally very reasonably priced.
mike@michaeltabone.com