Have you ever seen a French person at a food market? They will wander from one stall to the next, their brows furrowed deep like a freshly ploughed field. They will pick up a garlic bulb and look at it with the same intensity of a CSI operative examining a DNA sample. Then they will taste the cider, worry a bit, stare a fish in the eye, worry some more, and dip an asparagus spear in homemade mayonnaise. Then they will crack a smile and you know that all is well in their tasty world.
The French have a preoccupation with food. But it’s a healthy preoccupation. And it’s one that keeps them busy because the French larder is always full.
Nowhere is this bounty more beautifully displayed than at the daily or weekly food markets. Every town and village in France has a food market. And not one is the same as the other because each cooks up a different regional speciality. Marseille has its fish markets with a pride of squid, oysters and mussels on ice, Normandy stalls take pride in their cider, Calvados and Camembert, Alsace markets appeal to stronger tastes with their choucroute and Munster cheese, while the mountainous villages of Auvergne smell of the region’s famous blue cheese, Fourme d’Ambert, buttery Cantal and fresh Saint-Nectaire.
For a selection of the best patisserie, head to Rue Cler, a pedestrian area where the locals go to indulge their sweet tooth
It’s not just the region that dictates the offerings. Every season brings a harvest of different delicacies: green, purple and white asparagus in April and May, cherries and strawberries in spring, peppers and tomatoes in summer and early autumn, truffles and mushrooms in winter.
Paris
The French capital probably has the best and most generous spread of food markets. It’s difficult to say which Parisian market is the more delicious because they all are: your choice depends entirely on your tastes and on what you feel like on the day.
Le Marche Raspail is an upmarket option with various stalls offering organic fruit and veg. This is also where food trucks park to dish out gourmet burgers, organic pate and gutsy Gallic gastronomy. In the 12th arrondissement is Marche d’Aligre, an authentic food market that is open six days a week. The speciality here is olive oil from some of France’s top producers.
The pride of the second arrondissement is the market at Rue Montorgueil, one of the oldest in Paris. The atmosphere here is beautifully busy: against the backdrop of Saint-Eustache church is a huddle of cafes, restaurants and stalls selling meat, fish and cheese.
An arrondissement away is Le Marche des Enfants Rouges. Built in 1615, this market sells fresh fare as well as more exotic offerings such as falafel. For a selection of the best patisserie, head to Rue Cler, a pedestrian area where the locals go to indulge their sweet tooth.
Gascony
The Villefranche-de-Rouergue market in Gascony may only open on Thursday mornings. And yet, in this one day, this old market makes you feel happy that you’re alive. The medieval setting in Place Notre Dame will have your senses craving for a taste (not one, of course) of the region’s delicacies. It is not unusual to see nuns selling homemade cake from the cathedral porch.
Thuir, Languedoc
Every Saturday, the main square in Thuir comes alive with more than 100 stalls selling fish, wine, vegetables and flowers. The market here is especially renowned for homemade tapenade and heritage tomatoes. After you’ve done your shopping and noon is approaching, sit down at one of the stalls and have lunch.
Marche des Arceaux, Montpellier
From fruit and cheese to vegetables, charcuterie and fresh bread, you can find it all at the Marche des Arceaux, which sets up near the aqueduct on the Boulevard des Arceaux. Vendors are more than happy to let you sample their fresh produce, which is all sourced locally.
Cours Saleya, Nice
The main market in Nice sets up from Tuesday to Sunday right outside the historic centre. Flowers and food share the limelight, especially regional specialities such as pigs’ ears and heads. Other essentials of Nicois cooking include various parts of lamb and the freshest seafood.
Victor Hugo Market, Toulouse
Named after the author of Les Miserables and The Hunchback of Notre Dame, the Victor Hugo Market in Toulouse is open every day except Monday from dawn till 1pm. Every stall is dedicated to a regional speciality: from lamb chops, escargot ready to be cooked in butter and garlic to camembert and almond patisserie, everything will have you queuing up for second helpings.
Palais des Ducs, Dijon
Renowned for its mustard, Kir, blackcurrant liqueur and gingerbread cake, Dijon is a foodie town. Les Halles, a covered market near the Palais des Ducs, is open every day selling a pride of fresh vegetables, fish, liqueur de cassis and herbs.