I’m sitting precariously on a wobbly-legged plastic stool, a little too close to the edge of a main road than I would like. A murky bowl of porridge – a sort of rice soup rather than the wintry breakfast I was expecting – is placed on the table, next to the clay pot of frog stew sitting in front of me. This is not exactly what I imagined Singapore would offer me.
For the uninitiated, Singapore comes with many expectations. “Oh, that clean place?” my friend asked when I told him my plans to visit the small but densely populated garden city. I nodded. It was a thought that hadn’t failed to cross my mind the evening before, as I threw away any chewing gum running around the bottom of my bag for fear of being caught out.
Singapore’s strict laws related to cleanliness and smoking are notorious the world over. Rules and conformity are two other words that may also be associated with it.
Tucking into my frog porridge I’m pleased to note that, a week into my stay, while Singapore is in many respects just what was expected, it also has a lot more to surprise and delight the curious traveller.
Despite its small size, Singapore is full to bursting with opportunities to dip your toes into the various facets of Asia. Strikingly, over one third of its residents are not citizens: Chinese, Malays, Indians, and a large group of workers and expats from around the globe populate it.
An excellent way to get a feel for all these cultures is through the different shopping districts and food that Singapore’s centre has to offer.
A spot that quickly became my favourite and is a great place to get stuck in is the Kampong Glam district. A short distance from the Bugis MRT station, this is where Singapore’s Arab traders originally settled, and is divided into streets such as Muscat Street and Arab Street. A casual stroll through this area could certainly lead you to a spot of haggling over silk textiles. Also in the area is the Masjid Sultan, Singapore’s largest mosque. It is free to enter and an absolute must when visiting the district.
A short distance away you will find Haji Lane: this is a narrow lane bursting with colourful street art and hip and quirky boutiques selling anything from vintage handbags to cat-covered stationery.
While we are on the subject of cats, Singapore boasts no less than five cat cafes. If drinking tea and sharing dessert with a feline friend is on your to do list, Meomi Cat Cafe is less than a minute’s walk from Haji Lane.
For a more traditional vibe, head to Chinatown. The area between Pagoda Street and Smith Street is arguably the most tourist-friendly but don’t be afraid to venture further. This is where I found myself sat at Tiong Shian Porridge Centre, battling with a pair of chopsticks and attempting to eat some frog. Also on the menu that evening were braised and fried intestines, tofu with clams and raw fish. My local hosts were kept amused by my somewhat shocked but incredibly intrigued sensibilities.
Although the feasts of Chinatown are not always for the faint of heart, they can be surprisingly tasty. For something with milder shock value, make sure to pick up some Bakkwa, a salty-sweet dried meat product similar to jerky, from one of the many vendors that line the streets.
A district that is not to be missed is Little India: the centre of Singapore’s large Indian community, this area is more than just a tourist attraction. Iconic Singaporean shop-houses line the streets but with a little difference: their signs are mostly in Tamil – one of the city-state’s official languages – Hindi and other Indian scripts. Much like the real thing, the scent of Little India’s spices and incense engulf the senses, and Bollywood music drifts in and out of the alleyways.
Naturally, the food here is Indian. It is cheap, which is not always a quality of food in Singapore, and the portions are generous. Both Southern and Northern cuisine styles are represented. Be prepared to go native and dig in with your fingers.
One of trendiest areas to visit is Marina Bay and the nearby Central Business District. The skyline here is dominated by the Marina Bay Sands resort, which is well known for its rooftop infinity pool with panoramic views of Singapore’s CBD. Situated by the river, it is a nightlife hotspot and attracts fun-seeking tourists in droves.
For anyone who would normally steer clear of this type of ambience, don’t let that put you off. The area is well worth a visit, if only to visit the Gardens by the Bay. This is a futuristic park that has three waterfront gardens and a peculiar claim to fame: a grove of artificial super-trees. These tree-like structures function as environmental engines for the gardens, and come alive at night with a light and music show called the OCBC Garden Rhapsody. It is an absolutely breathtaking show and a highlight of any visit to Singapore.
Many travellers’ experience of Singapore is limited to an airport connection. As a former cynic myself, I would now encourage anyone to take the time to delve a little deeper and have a taste of the incredibly diverse and rich cultures this city-state boasts.