I think eggs are wonderful. They’re full of protein and vitamins, cheap, quick to cook and very versatile. And they come in their own individual bio-degradable wrapper. Could you cook without them? I’m sure I couldn’t. I know there’s the cholesterol thing, but even that has proved to be a bit overrated. But the rules still apply in regard to eating raw or undercooked eggs.
Huevos rancheros, or ranchers’ eggs, is a Mexican breakfast, usually eaten mid-morning, comprising fried eggs and a tomato-chilli sauce, sprinkled with cheese and served on a tortilla. To turn it into a more substantial meal, I use minced pork with chopped tomatoes and canned red peppers.
I think a can of peppers, or pimientos, is better for this rather than fresh peppers, as they are softer and don’t need to be peeled. But feel free to use fresh ones. You can also make it more like a chilli by adding a can of kidney beans.
A souffle omelette is a real treat for two, but it has to be served immediately, so leave your significant other to enjoy the rest of the wine while you whip up the eggs. Have some warm jam, lemon curd or stewed fruit ready to fill the omelette, then serve on warm plates and dust with icing sugar.
Fortunately, lemon chiffon isn’t something that has to be made at the last minute. It’s often used as a filling for a tart and topped with a layer of cream, but it’s basically just a lemon meringue pie filling, minus the pie and with the meringue folded into the lemon mixture instead of being put on top.
It makes a light and airy dessert to serve after a heavy meal and it will keep in the fridge for a couple of days.
My floating island recipe was first published 11 years ago, so I think it’s due for a revival. Looking back, I described it as ‘Oeufs à la Neige, or Snow Eggs – islands of meringue drizzled with caramel, floating on a sea of vanilla-flavoured custard’. Very poetic.
This time, it’s the same recipe, but I’ve made it in individual dishes so the meringues are now floating on a pond of custard instead of a sea!
Lemon chiffon
(Serves 6)
150g caster sugar
3 level tbsp cornflour
3 large eggs, separated
3 lemons
300ml water
2 tbsp sugar
100ml cream, whipped
Mint sprigs
Put 100g of the caster sugar into a bowl, together with the cornflour, egg yolks and the grated zest from two of the lemons, and mix it all together well.
Pare the zest from the remaining lemon and set it aside, then squeeze the juice from all three lemons and put it into a pan with the water. Bring to the boil, then gradually whisk it into the yolk mixture. Return it all to the pan, bring slowly to the boil, stirring constantly until it thickens and simmer for two minutes.
Pour it into a bowl, press a piece of greaseproof or non-stick paper on to the surface to prevent a skin forming and let it get cold.
Whisk the egg whites to a soft snow, then gradually add the remaining 50g of caster sugar and whisk until the whites are stiff and glossy. Peel off the paper from the lemon mixture and beat it well. Stir in a spoonful of the whites to soften it, the gently fold in the remaining whites. Divide the mixture between six stemmed glasses and chill in the fridge.
Trim off any pith from the reserved lemon zest, then cut the zest into very thin shreds. Put them in a small pan, cover with water, bring to the boil, then strain them and repeat once more.
Put the two tablespoons of sugar into the pan with two tablespoons of water, add the lemon shreds and bring slowly to the boil. Let it bubble for five minutes, then drain and cool.
Top the glasses with swirls of whipped cream, sprinkle with the lemon shreds and add a sprig of mint.
These are good served with crunchy shortbread biscuits.
Floating islands
(Serves 6)
200g caster sugar, plus 2 tbsp extra
2 level tbsp cornflour
6 egg yolks
750ml milk
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 egg whites
4 tbsp granulated sugar
2 tbsp water
Mix together the 200g caster sugar and cornflour. Add the egg yolks and whisk until pale and thick. Heat the milk until hot but not boiling and pour on to the egg mixture beating well.
Return to the rinsed-out pan and cook, without boiling, until the custard thickens. Stir in the vanilla, cool slightly, then divide between six shallow dishes. Cover them with cling film and chill.
Pour about five centimetres of water into a large shallow pan and heat to simmering point. Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they stand in stiff peaks, then whisk in the extra caster sugar.
Slide three large tablespoonfuls of the meringue into the simmering water, put the lid on the pan and poach for two or three minutes until they feel firm and not sticky. Drain on kitchen paper, then cook three more meringues and sit one on each of the custards.
Put the granulated sugar and water in a small pan and heat slowly until the sugar dissolves.
Bring to the boil and cook until the mixture turns a golden brown. Remove from the heat, cool for a minute or two, then drizzle a little caramel over each ‘island’.
Chill until ready to serve.
Soufflé omelettes
(Serves 2)
3 eggs, separated
Pinch of salt
1 tbsp caster sugar
15g butter
3 tbsp warm jam, lemon curd or stewed fruit
Icing sugar for dusting
Whisk together the egg yolks, salt and caster sugar until pale and fluffy. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until they stand in stiff peaks, then gradually fold the whites into the yolks.
Preheat the grill to high and heat a frying pan over medium heat. Add the butter and when it’s foaming, swirl it round to coat the pan, then add the eggs. Cook over medium heat until puffed up, set and golden brown underneath. Remove from heat and put the pan under the grill until the top is also golden.
Working quickly, lightly score the omelette across the centre without cutting all the way through. Spread your chosen filling across one side, fold over the other side, then cut the omelette in half. Serve on warm plates and dust with icing sugar.