When you’re buying a used car and you’ve decided on the model you want, you’ve then got to find a balance between colour, specification, price and mileage.

But do you have to compromise on quality to get what you want? Not in our book, so it pays to know the difference between honest wear and dishonest tear.

Some cars are better at hiding their age, mileage and true condition thanks to excellent build quality when the car was new. It means they can be disguising some unwanted damage or potentially big repair bills while seemingly offering a great deal.

Conversely, some other makes and models are not as carefully put together and can appear a little creaky and prematurely aged when there is nothing to worry about. How do you tell the difference? Here’s how.

Get in the know: First off, do your research into the make and model of car you want to buy. Different types of cars are likely to suffer varying wear and damage, so a city car might be more prone to scuffed wheels than an executive machine that spends its time on the motorway where stone chips are more of an issue.

A car with a stone-chipped bonnet might look scruffy, but if it has been covering 20,000 miles a year on the motorway, it’s likely to be in great mechanical shape. The cost of respraying the bonnet will be relatively small and is a great bargaining tool to get you a sound car at a lower price.

Hidden signs: Damaged alloy wheels are more of a problem. Repairing a grazed alloy wheel is simple, but it can mean more expensive bills to sort the suspension, so make sure the car drives in an arrow-straight line when the steering is in the straight-ahead position. Also feel for any judders when driving or the car diving to one side under braking.

Windscreens are one area where it’s hard to hide damage unless it has been completely replaced. Look for scratches that indicate a careless owner or lots of stonechips that suggest a high mileage that might not tally with what’s on the clock.

Panel verdict: Another giveaway to a car’s true condition is the fit and finish of the gaps between body panels. They should be even and regular all over the car.

Pay special attention to where the bumpers meet the wings, as this is the most common repair job. If they gaps are note even on either side, the chances are the car has been in an accident and repaired.

Also look for any paint overspray where a car has been repaired. Not only does this tell you the car has been repaired, it also indicates the work wasn’t completed to a very high standard, as a good repair company will be careful to avoid overspray.

Hear, hear: Inside the car, listen for rattles, creaks and squeaks on the test drive. All cars will suffer from some level of noise, but keep an ear out for anything that sounds out of place

In particular, keep an ear out for knocks coming from underneath the car when you hit bumps. This can indicate suspension issues or even chassis problems.

Dirty secrets: You should also inspect the upholstery, dash and headlining as carefully as you would the bodywork. Look for scuffs and dirt that hint at a harder life than the seller claims for the car. In estate cars, check the boot for damage or gouges in the plastics.

Any car with cigarette burns or stains will need interior parts replacing to make good the damage, so either account for this in the price or walk away.

When spending so much of your own cash on a car, it pays to be choosy. Don’t be put off by genuine wear, but stay on the look out for anything unusual and you will be sure to avoid a mistreated clunker.