A rambler savouring the view at Ramla l-Ħamra during one of the Gozo weekend walks.The Maltese countryside, so bare and forbidding in the long hot summer months, changes completely and takes on a stunning new look at this time of the year. Especially in winter it presents a floral paradise, with fields and valleys running riot with wild flowers like the dainty yellow cape sorrel (ħaxixa Ingliża), and later in the season the crown daisy (lellux) emerges, interspersed with patches of red clover (silla) and red poppies.
On the garigue (xagħri), ramblers can still smell the intoxicating fragrance of the wild thyme (sagħtar), home of the Maltese honey bee, mingled with the sweet smell of yellow flowered fennel (bużbież) as they welcome the cooler weather. They also experience the sudden change of the landscape and the dramatic shift in topography enriched by the vast expanse of the shimmering blue sea and unique shoreline or majestic cliffs.
As I write about our landscape, rock formations, secluded settlements and other natural gems, I cannot restrain myself from waxing lyrical about the infinite blessings bestowed on our island home. The Maltese archipelago’s flora is enhanced by archaeological and architectural features, such as intriguing giren (corbelled huts), wayside chapels and derelict fortifications.
Ramblers can marvel at the rugged beauty of the terrain as they approach the secluded bay of Fomm ir-riħ (Mouth of the wind) in the limits of Baħrija, flanked by the historic promontory of Ras ir-raħeb (Headland of the hermit), also known as Ras il-knejjes (Headland of churches). The areas are rich in archaeological remains dating from the classical period as well as strong religious connections, as indicated in the place names.
Since joining the European Ramblers’ Association, the Malta association has lured to its shores thousands of ramblers from countries as diverse as England, Scotland, Germany, France, Turkey, Italy and Belgium, who have all remarked about our potential to make Malta a ramblers’ paradise in the autumn and winter months, provided we harness all our resources in this direction.
The winter programme (January to March 31) includes over 30 circular walks held mainly on Saturdays, Sundays and Wednesdays along the length and breadth of the Maltese archipelago. Some of the trails may be a little demanding and perhaps challenging for beginners, but RAM informs its members of each walk’s grading, such as easy, moderate, difficult or restricted.
To me, pride of place in Malta goes to the idyllic trek along picturesque Wied Liemu, a fertile valley between Rabat and Dingli which reputedly gets its name from Padre Gugliermu, an early prior of the medieval Carmelite church in the contrada of San Leonardo, founded according to secure documents in 1418. The rustic country lane down Wied Liemu takes the rambler to one of the most fertile spots in Malta, a viridarium of lush gardens protected from the winds by high medieval rubble walls.
This rural settlement, with stunning views of the Arcadian valley below, was the favourite spot of the artist Willem Schellinks, who in 1664 included it in his illustrated catalogue Viaggio nel Sud. In his illustration, which is captioned Il Ritiro di Baldu, a donkey is seen at work driving a water mill from an ancient water gallery dating from Roman times.
The walks programme also includes the Victoria Lines, built by the British in the latter quarter of the 19th century, stretching from Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq (Sea of pebbles) to remote Fomm ir-Riħ. These lines of fortifications bisect the island into two distinct zones and was intended mainly to afford protection to the Grand Harbour area. They cross deep valleys and ascend steep inclines until they descend to the sea.
Undoubtedly, Binġemma Heights on the Victoria Lines are exceptionally suited for wilderness rambling, where one can explore the rugged cliffs honeycombed with cave dwellings and the Bronze Age silos enhanced by a fantastic view of the shimmering blue sea stretching as far as Gozo.
There are many delights for the compulsive rambler, not least is a healthy lifestyle
The programme’s Gozo weekend in February has become extremely popular as ramblers explore the island’s unique landscape, fertile valleys, rock formations and stunning cliffs. There are particular areas of our sister island that, apart from their breathtaking natural beauty, are acknowledged cornucopia of outstanding historical, archaeological and aesthetic value.
To me, the most outstanding is Ramla l-Ħamra Valley, not least because of its connections with the greatest hero of Ancient Greece, Ulysses, as described in the epic poem The Odyssey, written in circa 800 BC by Homer, considered the father of European literature.
In fact, this enchanting valley encapsulates our unique heritage, beginning from the prehistoric Ġgantija Temples on the Xagħra plateau to the mysterious Bronze Age village on the opposite hill, known as In-Nuffara, down to the small Roman country houses at Ta’ Hida on the Nadur slopes. Here the rocky terrain gives way to rich farmland interspersed by vineyards planted by the Knights of St John; and across the reddish sand dunes lies buried the vast Roman Villa discovered about a century ago.
Of course, the jewel in the crown of these rich historical treasures is the identification of this iconic site as the legendary home of the nymph Calypso, to whose charms Ulysses succumbed for many years.
Of course, there are many other delights for the compulsive rambler, not least is a healthy lifestyle. For further information about these winter walks, e-mail the Ramblers Association of Malta on ram205@gmail.com.
Lino Bugeja is honorary president of the Ramblers Association of Malta (RAM).