As a lover of history, culture and good food, Iggy Fenech visits the ancient city of Istanbul for the second time and falls for its charms all over again.

There is something absolutely breathtaking about standing in the middle of Sultanahmet Square and letting Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque impose their architectural beauty on your senses.

It is the perfect metaphor for how Istanbul is a city where East meets West; and it does it so beautifully and effortlessly, that it is very difficult to say exactly where one ends and the other begins.

The influences of Islam and the Ottoman Empire are vivid, alive and omnipresent, and form part of the beating heart that makes Istanbul such a vibrant city.

One of the most fascinating experiences, in fact, is when the Salat – an important Muslim prayer that takes place five times a day – can be heard emanating from the minarets of the many mosques that dot the city during sunrise and sunset.

Yet the Western heritage of the metropolis with a thousand names – Byzantium by the Greek colonists; Augusta Antonina and New Rome under the Romans; Constantinople by the Byzantines; and Istanbul once Turkey became a republic, just to name a few – can be still be felt throughout.

The lifestyle of the Istanbulites feels surprisingly Mediterranean, too.

The city is buzzing with workers, shoppers and tourists in the morning, goes rather quiet in the afternoon, and bursts back into life in the evening, when restaurants, pubs and clubs open their doors – much like Rome, Athens and Valletta.

As our second time in Istanbul, and with only three days to go around, my friends and I used to set out early.

But not before a hearty breakfast on the roof of the Aruna Hotel – a three-star gem with the loveliest staff you’ll ever meet and the most dramatic bedrooms you’ll ever sleep in a hotel of its kind.

I’m not sure if it was the fact we had been to Istanbul before, but we were all surprised at how its streets lent themselves to us, made us feel like natives and led us to the most wonderful sites Turkey’s most famous city has to offer. And, trust me, when it comes to historic sites, you’re spoilt for choice.

Gluttons in Istanbul will have a field day – make sure you visit one of the many Ottoman restaurants in the city

We started our tour at the old city centre, where two of its best-known sites sit opposite each other.

The first is the 1,477-year-old Hagia Sophia, whose name literally translates to ‘holy wisdom’. This now-secular space served as a Christian cathedral for almost 1,000 years.

The second famous hotspot is Sultan Ahmet Mosque, which is also known as the Blue Mosque due to its beautiful Iznik tile interior.

It was completed in 1616 and is still considered one of the most arresting and important after the Al-Masjid Al-Haram in Mecca, which was the first mosque ever built and is still the holiest site in Islam.

We did not have to walk far to get to the next landmark, as just a few metres away from Hagia Sophia lies the Basilica Cistern, an impressive water reservoir that was built on the site of an ancient Roman basilica.

The cistern is spectacular both because of its architecture and its history, and while the dress-up corner next to the souvenir shop really commercialises the place, it also makes for an hour of great fun.

Our next stop – and a must for any spice or leather fan – is the Gran Bazaar, one of the largest and oldest enclosed market places in the world.

With its 3,000-plus shops, it is a labyrinth with treasures and bargains awaiting you at every corner.

And as I had to find out, do not be afraid to haggle – prices are inflated to allow for this, so don’t feel bad!

Another wondrous place to visit is the Topkapi Palace overlooking the Bosporus.

Its gorgeous and lush interiors hark back to the time it was the primary residence of the Ottoman sultans, and the riches inside it spell out the majesty and power these men once held.

Here comes a bit of a spoiler, but the fact is too brilliant to omit: part of the palace’s museum is dedicated to holy relics, including Abraham’s turban and the staff Moses used to part the Red Sea.

A must for any leather or spice fan is the Gran Bazaar, one of the largest and oldest enclosed market places in the world

I stood there in disbelief for quite some time, but then remembered that Canterbury Cathedral in England housed a piece of the clay out of which Adam was formed, and realised that, hey, maybe we’re not so different after all.

But Istanbul is not just about history, and like in many other ancient cities, history and modernity sit side by side.

In fact, a taxi or tram ride away from the old city centre is Taksim Square, the heart and soul of modern Istanbul.

The square – famed all over the world for its restaurants, shopping and hotels – is an important landmark, but one which, in my opinion, leaves a lot to be desired.

Truth is, it felt a lot like Trafalgar Square, and I was hoping for something a bit less continental Europe – in style, not geographically.

Nevertheless, the vast space with the monument commemorating the fifth anniversary of the foundation of the Turkish Republic is as unmissable as the Eiffel Tower.

Gluttons in Istanbul will also have a field day. In fact, make sure you visit one of the many Ottoman restaurants in the city.

My absolute favourite is Pasazade Ottoman Cuisine, which has loads of exciting things on the menu, including Mahmudiye (Mahmut’s Dish), a sweet and fruity chicken dish with apples, raisins, currants and mashed potato… to die for!

One thing you’ll notice when you’re in Istanbul, however, is that no amount of time is enough to visit all the landmarks and all the restaurants – there are just too many.

But it’s a city that truly beckons you back time and time again, and when I do return, I’ll make sure to visit the medieval Galata Tower, the Fenâri Îsâ Mosque (two former Eastern Orthodox churches united into one mosque), and go on a tour of the Bosporus.

As for our trip, the ending was bittersweet.

Sad to leave Istanbul behind, the city was only meant to be a pit stop before heading to Bodrum, where the 66th European Law Students’ Association’s (ELSA) International Council Meeting was being held.

Malta’s delegation was there in force, and, to the joy of us all, ELSA Malta went on to win the bid to host the 69th meeting here on the island in 2016.

Congratulations, therefore, go out to both the ELSA Malta delegation as well as to the current ELSA Malta executive.

Great job, guys!

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