Eighties jewellery is making a stunning comeback as buyers re-evaluate the designs of the decade infamous for big hair and shoulder pads.
Collectors and investors are reappraising key pieces by signature designers as bold, colourful and outgoing jewellery makes its mark in the auction rooms.
Giant hoop and drop earrings and extravagant torque bangles and sprung-collar necklaces are back in vogue and commanding huge sums at sale, according to one of world’s leading auction houses.
Bonhams says jewellery characterised by abstract design, yellow gold, colourful precious stones and gem stones – the foundations of 80s style – is attracting new interest from buyers all over the world and prices are now soaring.
Having spent the past two decades out of mainstream favour, viewed as over-the-top and even tasteless, such pieces are firmly back in favour and have even been out-performing more classic styles of jewellery in international salerooms.
The resurgence of 80s jewellery has been inspired by a new generation of young designers, reacting to the trend over several years for conservative jewellery design, and the enduring versatility of original 80s pieces that makes them convenient for both daytime and evening wear.
While individual vintage pieces can go for many tens of thousands of pounds, they are predominantly being bought to wear.
However, according to Bonhams, the value of signed pieces by leading designers of the period is likely to keep on rising and therefore often construed as a safe investment as well as a practical buy.
Jean Ghika, head of jewellery in the UK and Europe at Bonhams, said: “With more women buying jewellery for themselves, they are looking for pieces that are easy to wear and adaptable from day to evening attire.
“Eighties jewellery certainly fits that bill. By comparison, much of the jewellery from the Art Deco period is meant to be worn exclusively in the evening with a formal dress.
“But big, bold and stylish 80s jewellery, with its unmistakeable mix of stones and vibrant colour palette – often set in yellow gold rather than white gold or platinum – can be easily worn both during the day and at night.
“That makes it a versatile option for the time-poor business woman. As a result, women are buying these pieces to wear rather than to collect. But the bonus is they are becoming valuable collectors’ items over time anyway.”
In some cases, the more eccentric and audacious the designs, the greater attention they have been attracting at auction. Recent sales include £11,000 for an amethyst and ametrine choker, and £17,000 for a moonstone and gem set necklace, both by US designer Tony Duquette whose large, bold and outlandish pieces are increasingly sought after.
Other designers whose 80s work is most sought-after and thus attracting the best prices include Paloma Picasso, Schlumberger, VCA, Cartier, Marina B, Bulgari, Aldo Chipulo for Cartier and Angela Cummings for Tiffany.
Such is the interest in their designs that many estimates have doubled, trebled and even quadrupled on the auction house floor.
Likewise, prices for pieces featuring classic stones such as diamonds, rubies and pearls set in 80s-style pieces have also soared.
Bonhams has compared sale figures of 80s jewellery in 2010 versus this year in London and New York and found pieces were now achieving an average of 70 per cent higher than estimated, though the final sale price on some lots was more than 200 per cent higher.
An incredible 18 carat gold and diamond necklace by Cartier estimated at around £5,000 sold for £11,600 earlier this month at Bonhams New York – up 103 per cent on the guide price – while a beautiful diamond and coloured diamond, gem-set pendant from 1980 sold for £19,400 in the same auction, up 216 per cent on the estimate. In London, a gem-set bangle by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co, circa 1980, sold for £7,000, up 40 per cent on its guide price.
By comparison, some stunning lots of signed 80s jewellery on sale in 2010 failed to reach their reserves, despite now being highly sought after and commanding top prices.
Ghika added: “There is definitely a feeling that these designs have been unappreciated, even as recently as four or five years ago.
“But many aspects of Eighties fashion are already making a serious comeback and so we’re seeing pieces that may have been gathering dust for the past 25 years on sale again.
“Now is definitely the moment to dig out any Eighties jewellery you might have hidden away in a box and have a look. It could be worth trying on again or selling if you’re still not convinced.
“Sprung collar gold necklaces, torque bangles and band rings are especially interesting to buyers. As are pieces with highly-polished cabochon stones in pinks, blues and greens.”
While people might not want to take the shoulder pads from the back of the wardrobe quite yet, Bonhams is recommending people examine their jewellery boxes for vintage 80s pieces.
The auction house’s panel of jewellery and gem experts in London, New York and Hong Kong are on hand to provide valuations and sales advice.
“The beauty of the Eighties is that for many people it’s still seen as the time that fashion forgot. Obviously that view’s now changing when it comes to jewellery. But it means there are many wonderful pieces still waiting to be re-discovered. It’s very exciting,” Ghika said.
Bonhams has a number of items from the 80s coming up in its forthcoming jewellery sales in New York, Hong Kong and London in the next two months. These include:
• An orange sapphire and diamond ‘Fujiyama’ bangle, signed by Marina B (1987) Est. £10,900 -£15,600;
• A jade and sapphire necklace, by Bulgari (circa 1985). Est. £8,000-£12,000;
• A diamond ‘Kar’ torque necklace, signed by Marina B (1988). The necklace is designed as a sprung collar set to the front with courses of brilliant-cut diamonds. Its shape and pattern is seen in many of Marina B’s signature designs. Est. £8,600-£15,600.
To book an appointment with a Bonhams jewellery expert, call 020 7468 8278 or e-mail jewellery@bonhams.com.
About Bonhams
Founded in 1793, Bonhams is one of the world’s largest auctioneers of fine art and antiques, with more than 57 specialist departments and a team of experts.
Bonhams offers sales through two major salerooms in London: New Bond Street and Knightsbridge; and a further three in the UK regions and Scotland.
Sales are also held in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Carmel, New York and Connecticut in the US; and Germany, France, Monaco, Hong Kong and Australia.
For a full listing of upcoming sales and details, go to www.bonhams.com.
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