Following friendly advice, Michel Rizzo is mesmerised by Lisbon’s ‘old Europe’ appeal and immediately gets the impression something great once happened there

Lisbon, or Lisboa in Portuguese, had been on my ‘want to visit’ list for a long time, ever since a group of close friends recommended it to me.

“It’s a kind of European San Francisco with old, relaxed charm,” was their description, and its hilly landscape is reminiscent of the Californian city.

A variety of custom-built trams whisk you up the many winding hills to ultimately get a glimpse of the majestic 25 de Abril Bridge, similar in many ways to the Golden Gate.

Yet, in fairness, that’s where the comparison stops. Lisbon is actually a city like no other... not just in Europe but across the globe.

Located on the westernmost point of Portugal and on the right side of the Tagus River, this so-called City of Discoveries has a very ‘old Europe’ feel and once you set foot in it, you get the immediate impression that something great and influential once happened here.

The city is rather distinct, combining a somewhat dilapidated charm in certain areas with a more modern and aggressive 21st century feel in others.

The Alfama is the true heart of Lisbon, a district that survived the 1755 earthquake and subsequent fire. To many, it might feel a tad like Morocco, which is not surprising considering the city’s Moorish roots.

Steep stairs, narrow streets, boarded-up houses and decaying doorways all lend themselves to a charming, and slightly shabby, yet genuine, feel. The sidewalks with their intricate mosaic patterns, the arcaded plazas, the Se Cathedral, the Miradouro de Santa Luzia and the Castelo de Sao Jorge are all Alfama must-sees.

Another prominent and picturesque neighbourhood is Bairro Alto, which gives the impression that a beautiful, interesting and compelling Lisbon is hidden behind every one of its old, wooden doors.

A close-knit working class quarter dating back to the 16th century, Bairro Alto has traditionally been the haunt of bohemian artists and writers. Its streets are relatively quiet during the day but are transformed with a vibrant nightlife.

Behind colourful and graffiti-laden façades is a variety of tiny traditional restaurants, with quaint and unevenly laid out tables, and bars that remain open deep into the night.

Portuguese cuisine is full of flavourful meat and fish dishes, available at very reasonable prices in Bairro Alto. Then there’s accessible local cultural practice called fado, sung in small rooms where the patrons get up and sing after dinner.

It might feel a tad like Morocco, which is not surprising considering the city’s Moorish roots

There is also a strong cafe culture, where people eat al fresco and sip on coffees as they calmly watch the world go by.

Without wanting to romanticise it, I think what attracted me to Lisbon is the fact the city is not too prettified. As an accompanying friend put it: “They don’t seem to be dressed up for tourists.”

Some might argue that the city could do with a facelift, but this is actually Lisbon’s charm, where welcoming locals seem to be saying: “Accept me as I am.”

It’s a philosophy that helps make you feel part of the surroundings rather than being solely an observing outsider. How can you not like a city that makes you smile? And indeed, Lisbon and its surroundings certainly did make me smile.

I only spent four days in this special city and its surroundings so I can’t really say whether I understood the essence of Portuguese society, but I see it as one where personal relationships and friendships and caring for each other form the real backbone... a bit like us Maltese.

Overall, I found Lisbon both relaxing and extremely stimulating, which makes it very comfortable. Or maybe, the fact tourists somehow don’t seem as loud and noisy as in other European cities.

Maybe it was the comfortable weather, or the great walks down Eduardo VII Park, or indulging in a few excellent guided tours.

Whatever it was, I certainly discovered the magic of Lisbon.

More to see and enjoy outside the city

Spectacular Sintra

Around 20 miles northwest of Lisbon lies Sintra, a Unesco-listed historic town straddled by an extraordinary number of beautiful castles and palaces.

Lying in the lush, wooded hills of the Serra Mountains, it is a world away from the congestion and hubbub of the capital city.

It’s a fairytale type of place in a spectacular landscape of green forests, watering fountains and antique chapels.

For centuries, Sintra served as the home of Portugal’s monarchy, with its cool temperatures luring royalty to sit out the hot summer in fabulous palaces and shady exotic gardens.

Nowadays, it is popular with tourists and local day-trippers.

Sintra’s many castles include the Palácio Nacional de Sintra (the main home of Portuguese royalty until the early 20th century), the hilltop Palácio da Pena, Quinta de Regaleira and its stunning surrounding gardens, the Palácio de Monserrate and the Castelo dos Mouros (Moorish Castle).

Their mixture of Moorish and Manueline architectural styles embellished with beautiful 15th and 16th-century ceramic tiles and exquisite art all contribute to the town’s magical feel.

It’s no surprise that Lord Byron, after visiting Sintra in 1809, declared it a “glorious Eden” containing “beauties of every description”. He couldn’t have been more spot on!

Belém and its pastéis

On the fringes of Lisbon, barely a half-hour drive away, is the picturesque, historical district of Belém. Situated on the banks of the Tejo River and home to the President’s official residence, Belém obliges you to stop in the centre and absorb all that is happening around you.

It’s a happy mix of history, leisure and recreation, where spectacular monuments lie cheek by jowl with contemporary museums, modern art exhibitions and busy cafes.

This district is best known for the Belém Tower, a Unesco World Heritage monument. Built in 1515 to act as a fortified lighthouse to guard the entrance to Lisbon’s harbour, it was from here that famous Portuguese navigators such as Vasco de Gama set off to explore the New World.

It is a spectacular monument to Portugal’s Age of Discovery, often serving as a symbol of the country.

However, what really makes Belém stand out are two shrines that attract thousands of tourists each year.

The more renowned, imposing one is the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, the peaceful late Gothic Manueline-style monastery that contains the tombs of venerated Portuguese kings and queens, Vasco da Gama and the national poet, Luís de Camões.

Just a few metres away is the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, a rather beguiling pastry shop that can accommodate hundreds of patrons at a time.

Founded in 1837, this old-time bakery is home to what is arguably the holy grail of Portuguese delicacies: the pastéis de Belém.

Its shell is made from crisp layers of light puff pastry, containing a luscious custard accompanied by a touch of cinnamon. They’re a bit like sweet pastizzi.

Served slightly warm and sprinkled with a blanket of powdered sugar, you have to refrain yourself from constantly reaching out for another and another... and yet another!

However, the proximity of the famous monastery to this bakery shop is no fortuitous accident.

Until the 19th century, monasteries were Portugal’s research and trade centres, around which small businesses sprouted up.

Originally, lay bakers produced the pastéis behind the walls of such monasteries and sold them to the public.

The early 1800 revolution led to the shutting down of most of the monasteries and this presented Domingo Rafael Alves, an enterprising Portuguese from Brazil, with an opportunity to purchase the recipe from a desperate, out-of-work baker.

In 1837, production of the pastéis resumed in Alves’s confectionery shop and according to his descendant Pedro Clarinha, the current owner, the recipe has remained unchanged.

Apparently, only three people in the world know its contents.

Where the land meets the sea

After a full day of touring castles and battling tourists in Sintra, you simply cannot afford to miss seeing the headland of Cabo da Roca on the way back to Lisbon.

This headland is part of the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park and at a latitude of 38º 47´ north and a longitude of 9º 30´ west, it is the westernmost point on the European mainland, as attested by a certificate I was given as a souvenir.

Standing at the edge of Europe (or should I say the edge of the world, as this was considered to be so many centuries ago) is a breathtaking moment.

With its spectacularly steep drop-offs, majestic lighthouse and endless sea, Cabo de Roca ranks as one of Portugal’s most stunning vistas. In all fairness, there isn’t much to do besides admire the view... but it’s worth it.

An ideal base

The icing on the cake during my four-day trip to Lisbon was staying at the spectacular Corinthia Hotel Lisbon.

It is only 20 minutes by taxi from Lisbon’s international airport and just round the corner from the city’s historic centre, overlooking the stunning 18-century Aguas Livres Aqueduct (Aqueduct of the Free Waters) and the beautiful Monsanto Nature Park.

This 518-room hotel includes both a presidential and an ambassador suite, besides other executive suites, a conference centre and the largest spa and wellness club in the city.

Its Sete Colinas and Típico restaurants offer a fusion of innovative Portuguese, Mediterranean and international cuisines.

Last year, it won the Western Europe Region Energy Project of the Year award. During the first half of 2013 alone, the hotel reduced 25 per cent of its energy consumption, corresponding to 600,000 kWh and 290 tons of CO2.

Corinthia Hotel Lisbon is a member of Corinthia Hotels’ collection of five-star luxury hotels, founded by the Pisani family of Malta.

• The author was a guest at the Corinthia Hotel Lisbon.