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Farsons Direct (Wands) has hosted a wine dinner built around the wines of Hugel, the famous Alsace producers at Temptasian, at The Palace, in Sliema. The event coincided with the visit to Malta by David Ling, an Englishman who has been in Alsace and with Hugel for the past 40 years or so and who, together with his wife Mimi, have spent many summer holidays among us. Unless I am mistaken, this was their 30th visit.
I have to admit that I have a soft spot for Alsace. I love the region, its people and their wines, although, of course, they have a broad, fragrant and perfumed typicity. I am attracted to them because they are unique, diverse, drinkable, accessible and very food-friendly.
They are unique because no other major wine region produces wines that are so instantly recognisable. There are many reasons for this: the dry cold climate and a history of multiple changes of nationality. This is also the only major French wine region that bottles its wine according to the grape variety.
Alsace wines are diverse because there are many styles and categories of wines: sparkling, dry, sweet, semi-sweet, reds, easy and early drinking, complex and mineral, hugely long- lived, etc. They are grown in clay, limestone, volcanic, sandy, loamy and flinty soils. On top of this, there are many grape varieties which, except for the Cremant and Edelswicker, are mostly bottled non-blended (the most important being Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Muscat and Pinot Gris).
Alsace wines are drinkable and food-friendly because good Alsace white has a refreshing acidity with pure flavours: medium, non-intrusive alcohol and no introduced flavours such as oak barrels, etc.
They are also extremely digestible and, indeed, help the digestion of food. Their fragrance and dryness marries well with most oriental foods while the more complex and mineral ones complement traditional and regional food just as well.
The rare and sweet Selection de Graines Nobles are ideal with desserts and strong cheeses.
The Hugel family has been growing wines in Alsace since 1639 and as a recently published book of letters found in the family archives proved, they have been championing the well-being of Alsacian wines, growers and region for hundreds of years. They are based in Riquewhir and today they own about 27 hectares of excellently-sited vineyards around the village. They produce around 100 thousand cases of wine, out of which 95 per cent is exported to around 130 countries.
Their worldwide recognition is mostly due to Johnny Hugel, who passed away in 2009. The latter was a larger-than-life wine man. I have had the pleasure of meeting him on several occasions and learnt a lot from him.
Around 60 wine lovers gathered for the occasion at Temptasian. Five wines were served. Accompanying a selection of very good Sushi was Gentil 2011, which is a blend of varieties but based on Pinot Blanc. It is easy drinking, light and uncomplicated and is excellent as an aperitif.
Jubilee is Hugel’s range equivalent to Alsace Grand Cru. The Riesling Jubilee 2008 is great. It is complex on the nose, has an oily texture and a mineral backbone. It married well with the soy and grain mustard dressing on salmon sashimi.
No other major wine region produces wines that are so instantly recognisable
This was followed by Peking duck accompanied by Hugel’s entry level Gewurztraminer 2011. From a food point of view, this order of service made sense but I thought that the Gewurz, although very well made, appeared light after the Jubilee Riesling. In any case, it married well with the Hoisin sauce served with the duck.
This was followed by Pinot Noir 2009, which accompanied a Teppanyaki mixed barbecue. If you like the red wines of Italy, of Bordeaux, and even Burgundy’s Pinot Noir-based wines, Alsace reds are not likely to blow you away. On its own merits, this 2009 vintage is pleasant and already quite mature without much frills.
We finished off with the wonderfully complex, rich and luscious Riesling Selection de Grains Nobles 1998. This is Alsace’s famous sweet wine made from nobly rotten grapes.
The wines of Alsace have grown in popularity in Malta. This event should help increase it even more.
mike@michaeltabone.com