Completing her travels around Sicily’s coastline, Fiona Vella explores the ancient Aeolian archipelago, whose rough beauty has been recognised as an Unesco World Heritage Site.
The Greeks were inspired by the mythological god of the winds Aeolus when they named the archipelago north of Sicily in the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Although it is also known as the Lipari group, after the largest island of Lipari, no name could better suit this ancient and captivating volcanic arc of lands than its original one – the Aeolian archipelago.
In 2000, the islands of Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi, Panarea and Basiluzzo were designated as a Unesco World Heritage Site.
All possess dramatic features due to their volcanic origin, but their contrasting characters make them ideal for island hoppers.
You can reach the Aeolian islands by ferry and hydrofoil from various points in Sicily but also from Naples and Reggio Calabria.
However, Milazzo in Sicily is the main departure point, with several hydrofoils leaving daily throughout the year.
Crossings take between 45 minutes to three hours, depending on which island is the destination.
Vulcano
Vulcano is the closest island to Milazzo. Besides its impressive name, it will surely be remembered for its mud baths and fumaroles, but most of all for its pervading rotten-egg stink of sulphur.
The Fanghi di Vulcano are only a couple of minutes’ walk from the port and they consist of warm, light-coloured mud that has long been considered as an excellent treatment for rheumatic pains and skin diseases.
However, if you dismiss the foul smell, anyone could enjoy some time rolling around in the mud.
A natural spa situated just round the corner, where there are hot, bubbling springs in a small seawater pool, will quickly wash off any remaining traces of clay but probably not the sulphuric stench.
Those who prefer a more chic environment can relax in a spa with thermal hydro-massage pools and a beauty centre. But spending all your time in one place would mean missing out on exploring Vulcano’s volcanic soul. It offers distinct areas such as Black Sand beach with its dusky sand and stunning views after climbing to the crater of the still-active volcano.
All possess dramatic features due to their volcanic origin, but their contrasting characters make them ideal for island hoppers
For those wanting the views without the exertion, a drive out to Capo Grillo will provide awesome perspectives of nearby Lipari and Salina, with Panarea, Stromboli and Filicudi off in the distance.
Lipari
Lipari is the largest island in the Aeolian archipelago and it is the only one with a sizeable town (also called Lipari) and a substantial year-round population.
According to archaeological records dating back to 4,000 to 2,500 BC, it was here that the first Sicilians migrated. Probably they were attracted by the presence of obsidian, a naturally occurring volcanic glass, which was widely used before the use of metal.
Interestingly, obsidian from Lipari was also discovered in the Maltese archaeological context, and this confirms the widespread manufacture and commerce of these objects from this island.
Lipari is also a significant source for pumice, a lightweight volcanic rock, which was used as a form of concrete during Roman times.
Pumice is still being extracted from the quarries, and while some visitors might regard the huge chunks eaten out of the landscape as an eyesore, others could consider the white background of this material as a beautiful backdrop to some bays, such as Punta Castagna.
Although Lipari is not very sophisticated, tourists flock to it, especially during summer.
An island tour is recommended to visit some of the most interesting sites, such as the village of Acquacalda, with its great beach of dark volcanic sand and a breathtaking view of Salina, the thermal springs of San Calogero, the historic Lipari castle and the archaeological museum.
Lipari’s sensational coastal panorama can be enjoyed from the viewpoint known as Quattrocchi, which is three kilometres west of the main town.
Salina
Salina is the greenest island of the archipelago. In ancient times it was famous for its salt mines but recently it is more popular for its role in the 1994 film Il Postino.
Due to its dense vegetation, this island is ideal for hiking enthusiasts who can exploit this natural characteristic to savour the beauty of areas such as Monte Fossa delle Felci.
A stroll along the main port’s street will reveal pretty boutiques and shops, together with a selection of 19th century houses that were built by merchants who had made their fortune by selling sweet Malvasia wine to the British.
Unfortunately, at the end of the century, many of these entrepreneurs lost their fortunes and people started to leave the island in search of a better life.
Viticulture has been recently revitalised and nowadays visitors can taste local wines at a number of vineyards.
The story of Salina and particularly the period concerning emigration are vividly evoked in two tiny folk museums, the Museum of Emigration in Malfa and the Ethnographic Museum in Lingua.
Panarea and Basiluzzo
Panarea is the island for the hot, rich and famous and it is considered by most as the most beautiful of the group.
Hotels are generally expensive and most are found in San Pietro with bars, restaurants and shops.
Nonetheless, it is still possible to find affordable rooms to rent in the quieter part of the village.
Walking around the island will lead you to some interesting sites such as the scant remains of a Bronze Age village in the south or the fumaroles at Calcara, which ancient Panareans believed were an entrance to the underworld.
Otherwise, tourists can rent a boat to explore the inlets on the wilder, uninhabited stretches of coastline that are inaccessible by land, or else join a trip to the nearby islet of Basiluzzo.
This is best known for its appearance in the 1960 Italian film L’avventura, when the characters are on a motor boat looking for somewhere to swim.
Stromboli
This is the farthest island on the eastern side of the Aeolian archipelago and was the last to have emerged from the sea.
It is characterised by Stromboli, the most active volcano in Europe, which can be observed from close range by joining a guided walk that takes about two hours.
For those who are less fit or not so adventurous, a boat trip around to Sciara del Fuoco will do the trick to observe Stromboli’s explosions from a greater distance.
Many of these trips occur after dark, when the sensational fiery emissions are more visible.
Filicudi and Alicudi
These two islands lie in the far west and they are best enjoyed on foot or by boat.
In Filicudi’s tiny fishing port of Pecorini a Mare, one can taste some of the best shells in the archipelago.
Moreover, the island’s seabed is popular with divers for its number of ancient shipwrecks.
Alicudi is the most remote of all the islands and it has the smallest population. Ferries are infrequent and its only mode of transport is on donkeys.