Malta and Sardinia, two Mediterranean islands that are quite different but with many similarities, particularly with regard to their history, both having been dominated by similar rulers and, most importantly, the warmth of their inhabitants.
My first visit to Sardinia was just over 20 years ago. I had very little time to get to know the place then as I only stayed for a couple of days. It took a number of years since to discover this other Mediterranean gem. For many years, Sardinia was to me the native land of folk singer Maria Carta, of that well-known musical band Tazenda and the land of that great italian footballer Gigi Riva.
The second largest island in the Mediterranean with a population of just over 1.6 million, Sardinia, with an area of 24,000 square kilometres, is an amazing land awaiting to be explored, especially by those who wish to experience nature and adventure at its best. Unfortunately, there are no direct flights between the two islands.
For many years, as Maltese, we have related more to our closer neighbours in Sicily, and this is understandable considering the sea and air transport connections between the two islands. Getting to Sardinia requires some more effort since there are no direct flights, and therefore a connection through another airport is required. One can make use of airline companies like Alitalia or Ryanair, possibly through Rome or some other Italian city.
Cagliari, its capital, has a population of 480,000, when taking into account the wider metropolitan area. Therefore, almost 30 per cent of the island’s population lives in Cagliari. At first glance, the city gives the impression of an industrial port and a city not much different from any other modern one. However, it has many secrets worth exploring and which are not so much publicised.
Cagliari’s origins date back to the Phoenician period and this is clear from the various remains that can be seen around the city, namely the necropolis of Tuvixeddu and the archaeological remains of St Eulalia, which were discovered as the foundations of the church dedicated to this saint were being consolidated. These underground remains date back to the pre-Roman period and consist of water cisterns, paved roads, a house and remains of what could have been a temple. This aspect of the city’s history is one element that is common with our island, considering that the Phoenicians have also left their mark here.
Apart from its immense archaeological heritage, the old part of Cagliari is a walled city which overlooks today’s modern city. By the 10th and 11th centuries AD, the island of Sardinia was divided into four autonomous realms called ‘giudicati’. These realms were called Arborea, Gallura, Torres and Cagliari. The island was at this time occupied by the Genoese and the Pisan maritime republics, with the Pisans establishing themselves in the giudicato of Cagliari, occupying the hill which today contains Castello. The first ring of fortifications was erected by the Pisans.
One’s imagination can easily be transported back to those days of chivalry and heraldry
Castello is characterised by narrow streets and squares with magnificent palaces, churches and townhouses. One’s imagination can easily be transported back to those days of chivalry and heraldry when cavaliers walked and knights on horseback rode along these streets whilst the noble ladies in their long robes and headdresses were being courted by noble gentlemen.
In 1324, the arrival of the Aragonese brought in the era of the Spanish domination of Cagliari. This is another aspect similar to our history. Cagliari’s coloured history is also characterised by the domination of other various powers, namely the Austrian Hapsburgs, all leaving their mark on this city.
The bastions overlooking the gulf of Cagliari provide breathtaking views of the city below and the surrounding mountain areas. Visitors to Castello should not miss a visit to the baroque cathedral dedicated to the Assumption of St Mary.
While history and archaeology provide rich experiences of Cagliari, this city has a number of very important natural areas which include the RAMSAR site of the Parco del Molentargius.
This park, with an area of around 1,600 hectares, includes a series of saline ponds and was once a state-owned enterprise for the production of salt. Today it is a breeding area for flamingos, which can be seen flying in groups over these ponds or feeding.
A visit to Sella del Diavolo (the devil’s saddle) is also a must for those visiting this city. An imposing promontory, this natural area offers an opportunity for trekking and countryside walks.
Like most cities, Cagliari has its fair share of churches with all their splendour. The cathedral dedicated to the Assumption of St Mary and its crypt deserve a visit where, besides the paintings and refined decorations, one finds a relic, the Holy Spine, that, according to tradition, is from Jesus’s crown of thorns.
Other churches are dedicated to St Anne, St Anthony the Abbot and the basilica of Our Lady of Bonaria, run by the Order of Our Lady of Mercy. In this church one can see the statue of Our Lady holding an infant Jesus, which miraculously survived a sea storm in 1370 when it was thrown overboard in a cask and found ashore by the Order, still holding a lit candle. Since then, she has become the protector of sailors.
A visit to the basilica’s museum, a depository of maritime-related items, mainly models of various ships and galleons given as gifts to Our Lady, is a must. Close by and located within a small shelter is an interesting and detailed mechanical crib depicting the life of Christ from his birth to his resurrection.
St Efisio is the patron saint of Cagliari. On May 1, a traditional procession is held along the streets of Cagliari with the participation of many folk groups, in very elaborately decorated and colourful costumes, from all over Sardinia.
A number of traccas, similar to decorated floats exhibiting agricultural and other folk traditions, enrich and enliven this procession. The tradition dates back to 1657 when the inhabitants of Cagliari prayed to St Efisio to deliver them from a plague.
The most important moment of this event, however, is when after the procession the statue is taken to a chapel at Nora, 30km away, and brought back to Cagliari on May 4, followed by many barefooted devotees. This latter event is currently being considered by Unesco to be added to its Intangible Cultural Heritage list.
The opportunities offered by Cagliari for the most daring are there to be discovered. Nonetheless, those who seek relaxation can certainly feel pampered by its long sandy beaches. Poetto beach, which extends for over eight kilometres, provides those wanting to relax by the seaside hours of fun in crystal-clear waters.
Evenings in Cagliari are certainly far from quiet and boring. Those who wish to appreciate the local gastronomy will find numerous restaurants and wine bars offering many local specialities like the pasta-based culurgiones and malloreddus, or the dishes made from lamb meat like Berbeche in cappotto or l’ispinada.
As for dessert one should try the local pardulas or the amarettos or the casadinas. The local pane carasau is never lacking on the table. Most restaurants offer Italian cuisine, yet one can find sushi bars, kebab diners and other ethnic cuisines. Yes, one can also find a McDonald’s outlet, but the franchise is not as common as in other major cities.
Teatro Massimo and Teatro Lirico offer those seeking a cultural evening interesting theatrical and operatic productions. Those who would prefer to skip dinner will certainly find pleasure strolling leisurely along the marina promenade watching the sunset and taking in as many memorable memories of this city of the sun.