Popularly known as the Egadi Islands, Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo form part of a tiny archipelago off Sicily’s west coast.
Though easily reachable within a few minutes by boat, hydrofoil, and ferry from Trapani or Marsala, the charm of these islands lies in their authentic remoteness and in their pristine environment.
A visit to these islands might be included in a vaster itinerary around Sicily. However, these islands are also ideal for a relaxing weekend break during which one can visit diminutive towns or villages, swim in isolated bays and coves, walk along deserted mountain paths, explore prehistoric paintings and graffiti hidden deep within secluded caverns or simply enjoy the rare experience of a slower rhythm of life.
Favignana
With an area of about 20 square kilometres, Favignana or La Farfalla, as it is often referred to due to its butterfly shape, is the largest and most populated of the Egadi Islands. It lies some 16km off Trapani’s coast and is a popular holiday destination in the summer months particularly because of its crystalline azure waters that offer excellent swimming and good scuba-diving possibilities.
Cala Rossa and Cala Bue Marino are two renowned bays with very unusual landscapes of old tuff stone quarries. In ancient times, tuff, which is a type of volcanic rock, was the principal resource for the inhabitants of the island.
These abandoned quarries have become another attraction for visitors, since from what remains one can still observe how this material was hewn out in long blocks in order to be exported to the rest of Sicily and North Africa.
On the other hand, sea caves such as the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Cave), Grotta dei Sospiri (Cave of Sighs) and Grotta degli Innamorati (Lovers’ Cave) are excellent sites for diving and exploration.
This island’s main town, which is also known as Favignana, is definitely worth a visit. On entering the small port, one will notice the disused old ‘tonnara’. Its structures served for the massive tuna industry in existence here.
These ‘tonnare’ were constructed in 1874 when the Egadi Islands were bought by the powerful Florio family, whose business interests included sulphur mining, tuna fisheries and Marsala wine.
Indeed, the affluence of this family is also evident in the magnificent Palazzo Florio, which is situated near the harbour and is open to visitors.
In Piazza Madrice, one can visit Favignana’s historical centre, with its Baroque church, various souvenir shops which tend to focus on tuna products, and cafeterias.
Depending on the time available, one can also stroll around the narrow streets where the residents’ quarters are situated.
Another interesting site where one can also enjoy breathtaking views of the whole island is Forte di Santa Caterina. This can be reached by car, motorcycle, bicycle or on foot.
Levanzo
To the north of Favignana, one finds Levanzo, which is the smallest of the Egadi Islands, having an area of just six square kilometres.
It can be easily reached from the mainland or included as part of the itinerary, which is provided by regular boat trips to these islands.
A contained but pretty port with a background of dramatic rocky cliffs welcomes you on land, where Levanzo’s miniature town of white houses with blue doors overlooks the stunning views of the open sea.
Everything is minimal on this island. There is only one road, a handful of shops and restaurants and two small hotels.
The hilly landscape limits even further what one can do on Levanzo. However, this makes it ideal for those visitors who are after a stressless holiday with lots of lazing around.
Those visiting the islands briefly will only have time to walk along the few houses or refresh themselves in the azure sea of Cala Dogana.
Yet Levanzo is particularly recommended for a romantic weekend break, during which one will have time to ramble across the hills where the highest peak, Pizzo dei Monaco, rises to 278 metres. Another engaging location is the lighthouse of Capo Rosso, which is on a sheer cliff, offering a fantastic panorama.
Meanwhile, those who have an interest in archaeology should visit the prehistoric Genoese Cave (Grotta del Genovese), which was discovered in 1949. One has to be accompanied by a guide to access this cave, where one can see prehistoric paintings of scenes from daily life, including fishing for tuna, animal husbandry and even dance.
Everything is minimal on this island. There is only one road, a handful of shops and restaurants and two small hotels
Marettimo
Marettimo is the most isolated of the Egadi Islands. It takes one hour to cross from the port of Trapani to reach it. It has an area of about 12 square kilometres and like its sister island Levanzo, it is not the place for those who are looking for urban comforts and nightlife. Certainly, in the small village of Marettimo, one finds a couple of restaurants serving sublimely fresh fish but little else.
On the other hand, this island is ideal for lovers of trekking and swimming. The rugged mountainous hinterland is dominated by the bulk of Monte Falcone which, at an altitude of 686 metres, reaches the highest point on this island.
Trekkers can explore the archaeological remains of a Roman settlement, which in Roman times acted as an important observation point for passing maritime traffic.
Moreover, close to this area, there is a fascinating Byzantine-Norman church that has been recently restored. On the west coast, one can visit the whitewashed Faro di Punta Libeccio lighthouse, which provides excellent views of the area.
Yet another exclusive route is the one that ventures to the imposing 17th-century Spanish castle daringly perched on a hill on the Punta Troia promontory.
Like the other islands, Marettimo has numerous caves that can be reached only by boat. Generally, one will find a number of local fishermen who are ready to take tourists on boat trips around the island.
One of the most popular caves is definitely La grotta del Cammello (Camel’s Cave), where visitors can take a plunge in the cool waters of its pebbly beach.
Where to stay
The Egadi Islands offer various arrangements which mostly depend on one’s budget. There is a limited selection of hotels that vary in the level of convenience, services and prices. However, one can also choose to stay at a guest house or rent an apartment.