The reputation and fame of the Bordeaux 2004 vintage seems to have a life of its own. Stuck in- between the very atypical hot vintage of 2003 and the dream vintage of 2005, the wines of 2004 had to struggle to gain the attention they so truly deserve.
Offered to a less-than-enthusiastic wine world in the spring following the harvest, the best accolade the vintage could muster was a ‘good’ to ‘very good’ by some British commentators. Deemed as a ‘classic’ vintage for traditional Claret drinkers, and perturbed by reports of high levels of production, investors stayed away, which meant really good opening prices, good availability and great value for those who bought the wines en primeur (buying before bottling).
Having tasted a lot of wines in the build-up to the selling campaign, I had advised a lot of Maltese wine lovers and collectors to buy this vintage. Indeed, many newcomers came onto the wine scene and a lot of Maltese cellars have 2004s as their first vintage.
With low prices, no speculation and no journalists rushing to make their reputation on its quality, the vintage remained largely in the shadows until the tastings before bottling, where those of us who saw more than meets the eye confirmed that the vintage offered real quality and typicality, and that after the stratospheric prices of 2005, it proved to be a real bargain of a lifetime.
At that time, some influential wine critics crowned it ‘the last affordable Bordeaux vintage’, but of course, since then 2008 and 2012 turned out similar wines at similar prices.
In weather terms, 2004 provided an excellent growing season for today’s methods of viticulture. A dry and warm May/June ensured a very successful flowering which resulted in a large fruit set that needed to be thinned or green-harvested in order to keep within appellation limits and to avoid dilution and problems with ripening.
Those with lesser soils would have needed to do this more severely to improve quality. July was also dry and warm, but August was wet and cool. The first few days of September brought nice, dry, warm weather which lasted until rain returned on October 9, by which time most of the Merlot and a large portion of Cabernet Franc had already been harvested.
In weather terms, 2004 provided an excellent growing season for today’s methods of viticulture
Because after the rain the weather remained relatively cool, the Cabernet Sauvignon remained healthy and was harvested with optimum ripeness. This resulted in a good year for both left and right banks. Good winemakers were able to make aromatic, fleshy wines with good levels of colour and tannin, lively acidity and fruit levels with a high degree of vineyard and appellation typicity for short- to medium-term ageing.
It is always interesting to taste Bordeaux 10 years on. Especially for classic-styled ones, this is a magical time when wines start shedding their tannins and develop ‘tertiary aromas’. So in recent weeks I have tasted, both privately and at various wine-tasting groups, a large number of wines covering Bordeaux’s most famous appellations.
Starting in Pessac Leognan, just south of the city of Bordeaux, on our journey north through the Medoc(ish) Pape Clement, the wine is fully developed with lovely earthy flavours.
La Mission Haut Brion is good but in my opinion does not live up to expectations and price. North of the city and into Margaux, Labergorce Zede is drinking extremely well. It is prob-ably now at its peak. From the same appellation, Rauzan Segla is still a bit tight and needs more time in bottle. Further up the route des vins, both Pichon Comtesse Lalande and Clerc Milon are showing the finesse and elegance of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pauillac. Wonderful, crisp dark fruits, long and broad, Latour needs more time.
St Estephe generally produces a more mineral style of wine. Lilian Ladouys has an unbeatable value at around €18. Phelan Segur is good and drinking well, as is Cos d’Estournell, albeit at a much grander style.
Crossing over to the right bank and Merlot(ish) territory, La Serre in St Emilion is just great; no need for words. Figeac exhumes elegance and drink-ability. Excellent now, but in usual Figeac fashion will keep for many more years.
Just next door, Cheval Blanc, with its unique texture, is excellent too, apart from its astronomical price! Balestard La Tonnelle, from the north of the St Emilion plateau, is mature and fine to drink now and over the next two to three years. Carillon d’Angelus is the second wine of Angelus. The 2004 is now a bit past it and it lacks freshness.
From the same winemaking team, but this time in Lalande de Pomerol, La Fleur de Bouard is very good on opening but tires very quickly in the glass.
Across into proper Pomerol are two of my favourites from this appellation: both Gazin and La Conseillante are excellent with the latter a notch or two up.
I am a confessed Bordeaux lover, and tasting all these wines 10 years from their year of birth rewards all the trouble and patience I and other wine lovers go through ageing and keeping wines. Ten years for a vintage like 2004 seems about right. Many more for a vintage like 2005 or 2010.
My verdict is that there are some very good 2004s and most are still value for money. Even more so for those who bought the wines en primeur, especially when one considers that, for example, the first growths were sold in Malta at Lm50 excluding VAT. By today’s standards, nearly everyday wine!
It does not seem like a long time ago … or maybe I am getting old … but those were the good, old days.
mike@michaeltabone.com