With the elections to the European Parliament held yesterday, it seems appropriate to talk about European rice. It has certainly travelled a long way from its origins in Asia, first to Europe and then on to America. The Romans were familiar with it and used it as a medicinal herb but, depending on whose theory you are reading, it was either the Phoenicians or the Moors who first introduced rice as a food to Europe centuries ago. But whoever brought it, and whenever it arrived, we should be very grateful to them.
The largest rice-growing areas in Europe are in northern Italy and Valencia in Spain, but the south of France is also a producer. We all know and love risotto rice, the three main varieties of which are Arborio, which takes its name from a village in Piedmont, Carnaroli, said to be the choice of chefs in Piedmont where more than half of Italian rice is grown, and Vialone Nano, which is apparently preferred in Veneto and Lombardy.
But there are other lesser known varieties. Unfortunately, I’m not what you might call an aficionado and really can’t tell the difference between them. I just like risotto, wherever the rice comes from.
I just like risotto, wherever the rice comes from
Most Spanish rice is produced around Valencia and there are several varieties, the most prized for making paella being bomba rice. Valencia rice has earned a Denominación de Origen, as has the town of Calasparra, which is a small producer of high-quality rice in the province of Murcia.
I must admit, I’m fairly confused by what I’ve read about European rice. One report says that Spain is the second largest producer of rice in the world, which I find surprising, but another says that Italy is Europe’s largest producer. Surely that would make Italy the world’s second largest producer, not Spain, but I’ll leave that for them to fight out among themselves.
The Camargue in the south of France is famous for its wild white horses, flocks of flamingos, fighting bulls (which, unlike their Spanish brethren, live to fight another day), and red rice, which is something of an anomaly as apparently the colour wasn’t planned, it just happened.
Camargue red rice is unmilled and is often described as having a chewy texture and nutty flavour. Unfortunately, it’s not to my taste. It is definitely chewy, but I would describe it as woody rather than nutty. I brought it from England some time ago to try, as I don’t think it’s available here, although you can buy it on the internet.
Much more to my taste is the red rice that I recently bought in my supermarket, which is packed by Good Earth and comes from Italy, not France.
There’s always an alternative and, just as Camargue riz rouge can be swapped for Italian riso rosso, so Spanish bomba can be replaced with Italian Arborio.
Grilled halloumi with red rice salad
This is what you might call an international dish – halloumi from Cyprus, red rice from France and basil and pine nuts from Italy. Good Earth supply red rice from Italy, but you could use brown basmati if you can’t find it.
(Serves 4)
200g red Camargue (or Italian) red rice or brown basmati rice
2 tbsp honey
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
4 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper
10cm-piece hothouse cucumber
1 small onion, finely chopped
3 tbsp toasted pine nuts
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tbsp shredded basil leaves
250 g pack halloumi cheese
Cook the rice in boiling salted water for 35 to 40 minutes or until just tender, then drain and cool it quickly under cold running water. Drain well again and put it into a large bowl.
Put the honey into a small bowl and whisk in the vinegar and mustard. Gradually add the oil, whisking until it’s well blended. Season with salt and pepper.
Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds, cut it into small dice and add it to the rice, together with the onion, pine nuts, tomatoes and basil. Season with salt and pepper and toss it together gently.
Cut the halloumi lengthwise into eight slices, then grill or fry it until lightly browned on both sides. Stir about half the dressing into the rice, then divide the salad between four plates. Top each plate with two slices of halloumi, then drizzle the slices with the remaining dressing and serve.
Aubergine, rice and mozzarella bake
Think of this as baked rice with a difference. It makes a super vegetarian supper, and meat-eaters can always add a grilled chicken breast or chop if they absolutely must.
I blanch the aubergines so the dish is less oily, and I still salt them, although that’s not strictly necessary.
(Serves 4)
3 aubergines, about 350g each, salted if preferred
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
200g Arborio rice
100ml dry white wine
600ml vegetable stock
500ml passata
Small (200g) can chopped tomatoes
1 tbsp each chopped parsley and celery leaves
1 tsp dried oregano
Salt and pepper
Large pinch of sugar
400g mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced
Cut the aubergines into five-millimetre slices, drop them into a large pan of boiling water, bring back to the boil and blanch for two minutes, then drain them well.
Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onion until it starts to soften. Stir in the garlic and rice and fry for a minute more. Pour in the wine, raise the heat and let it bubble until it has evaporated. Stir in the vegetable stock, passata, tomatoes, parsley, celery and oregano, season well with salt and pepper and add a large pinch of sugar. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for five minutes, stirring from time to time.
Preheat the oven to 200˚C. Spread a third of the aubergines over the bottom of a baking dish and add a third of the cheese. Pour on half the rice mixture, then repeat with another third of the aubergines and cheese and the rest of the rice.
Top with the remaining auber-gines and cheese. Cover with foil and bake for 20 minutes, then uncover the dish and continue to cook for another 10 to 15 minutes until browned and bubbling. Let it stand for a few minutes before serving.
Mushroom risotto
This simple risotto is probably my favourite. I like my risotto quite ‘soupy’ and wet, but if you prefer it drier, you may not need to add all the stock.
(Serves 4)
20g pack dried porcini mushrooms
60g butter
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
300g Arborio rice
1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves, or 1 tsp dried thyme
150g dry vermouth or white wine
Approx. 800ml hot vegetable stock
400g mixed brown and white mushrooms
Salt and pepper
Parmesan shavings to serve
Soak the porcini in 150ml of boiling water for about 15 minutes, then drain, reserve the soaking water and chop them.
Melt half the butter in a large pan and fry the onion until starting to soften, then add the garlic and fry for a minute more. Add the rice and stir until it’s well coated with the butter, then add the chopped porcini and thyme. Stir in the vermouth and let it bubble over high heat until evaporated. Add the porcini soaking water and a ladleful of hot stock and simmer until it is almost absorbed, then add the rest of the stock to the rice, a ladleful at a time, stirring until the rice is tender.
While the rice is simmering, heat the remaining butter in a pan and fry the mushrooms, quartering the smaller ones and slicing any large ones. When the rice is cooked, stir in the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Serve in warm bowls with Parmesan shavings scattered over the top.
Spanish chicken and rice
The Spanish would use bomba rice, but arborio is almost the same.
(Serves 4)
4 chicken legs
3 tbsp olive oil
2 large onions, cut into thick wedges
4 cloves garlic, crushed
250g arborio rice
200ml dry sherry or white wine
1 tbsp smoked paprika
600ml chicken stock
2 red peppers, cored and thickly sliced
Half a 250g loop of hot Spanish chorizo, thinly sliced
3 tbsp chopped parsley
Salt and pepper
4 bay leaves
Handful each of black and green pitted olives
Preheat the oven to 165˚C. Cut the chicken legs in two through the joint and remove the excess backbone from the thighs. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the chicken over high heat until the skin is brown and crusty. Transfer the chicken to a plate.
Add the onions to the pan and fry until they start to brown, then stir in the garlic and fry for a minute more. Add the rice and stir until it is well coated with the oil, then pour in the sherry and let it bubble until reduced by about half. Add the paprika, stock, peppers, chorizo, two tablespoons of the parsley and season well with plenty of salt and pepper.
Transfer the whole lot to a large wide baking dish and tuck in the chicken pieces and bay leaves. Cover the dish tightly with foil and cook in the oven for about 40 minutes, until the rice is tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed.
Uncover the dish, remove the bay leaves, scatter over the olives and remaining spoonful of parsley, then serve with lots of crusty bread.