The imposing National Library. Photo: Joseph CamilleriThe imposing National Library. Photo: Joseph Camilleri

I always wished to visit Athens to enjoy its rich archaeological and Byzantine heritage. Summer, the only time of year I could have a peaceful holiday away from home and work, was not the ideal season for walking and discovering this city’s past.

So when the first opportunity to leave for Athens in winter knocked, I decided to take it; I left on the last day of January.

I was not mistaken. The temperature had cooled down but was still ideal for any outdoor activity. There is always the possibility of rain but wind kept this away and solved all my weather problems. The days were great for walking and discovering the heritage richness on foot.

Athens has three major attractions: archaeological remains, Byzantine churches and heritage and neoclassical sites.

A walk through Dionysiou Areopagitou Street and its environs puts the major Greek remains within reach.

Archaeological remains

I suggest one starts with the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian’s Arch. These are located at the end of Amalias Avenue.

The arch was built by a Roman ruler in AD132 to mark the boundary between ancient and Roman Athens.

Next to this arch, there is the Temple of Zeus, which is the largest temple in Greece.

While entering this site, one could buy a special ticket (€12) to be able to visit six main archaeological landmarks. These tickets are valid for three days.

Winter days offer warm coffee and roasted chestnuts, while in the evenings a dinner in a tavern in the company of friends and a glass of Greek wine is a must

Cross Amalias Avenue next to Hadrian’s Arch, go past the Melina Merkouri monument and proceed to Dionysiou Areopagitou Street. From here, one can visit the Dionisos Herodes Attikos Theatre and the Acropolis site, the ancient Agora, the Kerameikos cemetery and the other temple of Zeus. All will awaken images of another lifestyle in ancient Athens.

The major site of this walk is the area of the Acropolis, an ancient citadel located on a high rocky outcrop above the city of Athens. It contains the Parthenon Temple, which was built, between 447 and 432BC, as well as three sites next to it – the Temple of Nike, the Erectheion and Propylaea.

Just below, there is the theatre of Dionysus, one of the oldest theatres built in the fourth century BC, which hosted plays by Euripides, Aristophanes, Sophocles and Aeschylus.

One could start by visiting the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, and then follow the path leading uphill to the Parthenon.

If one is in the company of little children or the elderly, an alternative route, which is longer but safer, could be considered.

Finally, after roaming around the Acropolis area, a visit to the new Acropolis Museum is a must.

This can be found just across the Acropolis site, at the beginning of Dionysiou Areopagiou Street. It is a massive construction, made of glass and stainless steel and built in 2007.

There one can admire the Parthenon’s freezes as well as the finds from the sanctuaries on the slopes of the Acropolis.

One can have lunch or relax viewing a well-documented film about the Pantheon’s history at the museum. Other sites next to Acropolis Hill are included in the special six-sites ticket.

The National Archaeological Museum is another possibility. This features a rich collection from the beginning of pre-history to late antiquity.

On Sunday all these sites can be visited for free.

Byzantine art

The Orthodox Cathedral is two blocks up from Monastiraki Square. Also known as the Mitropolis, the cathedral is a massive structure built with stones from 72 demolished cathedrals. All these churches were destroyed by the Turks. The interior of the cathedral, which is currently undergoing renovation, is impressive.

One comes across many small Byzantine churches in the old parts of Athens. The Kapnikarea is one of them.

Located in the middle of Ermou Street, it is dedicated to the Presentation of the Virgin. Other famous churches are Ayioi Theodoroi and Ayia Dynamis, to mention just another two.

One cannot miss the Byzantine and Christian Museum found in Vasillissis Sofias Avenue.

Here one can discover items belonging to the Byzantine and early Christian eras as well as a good collection of icons and printed material.

At the end of the visit, one could enjoy a cup of coffee or tea in the garden of this museum. Entrance is free on Sunday.

Neoclassical buildings

If one is fond of discovering neoclassical buildings, one should walk from Syntagma Square to Klafthmondos Square.

The Parliament Building, Iliou Melathron, Catholic Cathedral, National Library, the University and many other buildings are to be found here.

The last buildings worth visiting are all found in Panepismiou Street. Next to Parliament and the National Gardens there is the Presidential Mansion – the former Royal Palace located in Herodou Attikoy Street. This building is guarded by an Evzone, a Greek soldier in traditionalmilitary dress.

Other attractions include the Changing of the Guard by the Evzones in front of the Parliament Building at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Syntagma Square. This takes place every hour, while every Sunday morning, just after 10.30am, one can watch the full official ceremony, as the Presidential Guard march from their barracks to the tomb, followed by a military band.

Another must-see is the Panathenaic Stadium (popularly known as Kallimarmaro) – the only stadium in the world built entirely out of white marble from Mount Penteli.

The Plaka district, on the northern slope of the Acropolis Hill, is a cobble-stoned, pedestrian area full of narrow streets, old mansions, taverns and tourist art/craft shops.

The Monastiraki area includes the flea market, where one can find shops selling souvenirs, sportsware and antiques. The best time to visit is on Sunday morning, when it is running in full glory, before the late-afternoon rush hour.

Athens has much to offer to the visitor. Winter days offer warm coffee and roasted chestnuts, while in the evenings a dinner in a tavern in the company of friends and a glass of Greek wine is a must.

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