Karl Lagerfeld transformed the Grand Palais into the Cambon Club, a contemporary vision of a nightclub with minimalist decor. The aluminum floor, which formed the set, was surrounded by mirrors veiled in muslin. Framing the stage, the models cascaded down the staircase at the tempo of an orchestra led by Sebastien Tellier.

Wearing sneakers, they dashed by the symphony of guests including Chanel ambassadors Tilda Swinton and Anna Mouglalis, singer Lily Allen, French actresses Clotilde Hesme, Ana Girardot and Alma Jodorowksy and Korean singers G-Dragon and Taeyang from the BigBang.

This season, Lagerfeld plays with the house codes by mixing the ultimate feminine symbol of couture – the corset, with the ultimate symbol of sportswear – the sneaker. He infuses each silhouette with youth, energy and modernity.

White and beige – the emblematic colors of Chanel – pinks, pastels and iridescent tones that are electrified by blues, greens, gold, brass and black emphasise this idea of freshness. Analogously, elbow pads, knee pads, fanny packs and gloves come to accessorise daywear.

The iconic jacket is transformed into a rounded, shouldered bolero with three-quarter-length sleeves, whereas the suit becomes a trompe l’oeil effect bustier dress with widened hips to better accentuate a slim waist, each time embraced in a corset embroidered with stones or sequins.

For evening wear, the long dresses playfully take on transparent, embroidered tulle superimposed with lace and sequin patchwork. The figure is liberated from the corset with each appearance. Becoming more and more fluid, the lines are elongated into trains and are embellished with embroidered flowers, crystals, feathers or iridescent flickers of material.

Engaging in a playful game of contrast and transparency, the Chanel 2014 spring-summer haute couture collection foretells a season filled with energy.

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