Cemberlitas Hamam, built in 1584.Cemberlitas Hamam, built in 1584.

Ah, the deep relaxation of the sauna. Sweating away a weekend’s mischief, plunging into an ice-cold pool, and the incumbent feeling of healthiness that ensues. In general we think of the sauna as a private affair, a chance to rewind and recuperate. Perhaps an opportunity to smell like a flower shop or fall asleep in public.

But for more than a millennium they’ve also been social hubs and shared experiences. Finnish people congregate together in wooden cabins and across the old Silk Road, business dealings were conducted in Turkish steam baths.

Simultaneously developed by the Finnish and the Romans, saunas spread across the world, subtly changed by different cultures. For some it’s a luxurious opportunity to relax, while others use it as a substitute for a pensioner’s community centre.

So here is a guide to what to find across the world and where to find it.

The Finnish sauna

Sauna is a Finnish word and the saying goes that Finns will build a sauna before they build their house. Each family has a wooden cabin and rather than invite friends for dinner, they invite them for a six-hour sweatathon.

Every 20 minutes people dive into the snow or beneath a frozen lake to balance the heat. Sounds therapeutic, but the sauna’s main purpose is as the de facto hangout spot to get drunk. Surrounding snow keeps the vodka chilled and raucous congregations continue into the early hours.

While invites to a Finnish home are unlikely for foreign visitors, public saunas sit on frozen lakes and amid villages across the country. Bring a bottle as it’s probably the best opportunity there is for genuine interaction with the often timid locals. As the Finnish prime minister said “life without sauna is impossible”.

Where to experience it: Finland of course, but also the surrounding countries like Sweden and Estonia. A particularly impressive example is at the Ice Hotel in Kiruna, northern Sweden.

Classic traveller tale: “Rather than waking up feeling refreshed I woke up clutching an empty bottle of vodka and reaching for the painkillers.”

The Turkish hamam

Ornately decorated and screaming of grandeur, the Turkish hamam has always been a form of escapism. Alongside the mosque, they were always the finest buildings in a town and the place where men would socialise.

Finns will build a sauna before they build their house.Finns will build a sauna before they build their house.

More recently, women have been invited and they usually have their own section.

Marble walls and pillars give a regal impression, while spectacular domed ceilings have small holes for natural light.

People lie on the hard hot stones in the centre, awaiting the arrival of a short old man with a protruding pot belly. With a candy floss-like roll of soap, these men scrub customers with hands and elbows, removing layer after layer of dirt and skin. It can be painful, but in that nice way that you know will be beneficial afterwards.

Where to experience it: Istanbul has the oldest and most beautiful hamam. The domes of Cagaloglu Haman are stunning and it’s rightly the most popular with tourists. Or try the more local Cemberlitas Hamam, built in 1584.

I was a good chess player but beating a local bath resident was impossible. Every time I had an important move, my opponent would change position, swinging his testicles behind his king

Classic traveller tale: “I had been nervous, but the cleaner’s natural movements meant I wasn’t embarrassed with a hand going near my crotch. But then I opened my eyes. In every direction, unavoidably at eye level, was the view of another prostrate man with his legs apart.”

Japanese sento

Historically, the Japanese came to these communal bath houses to get clean. Despite a variety of bathtubs and a salubrious sauna, visitors rarely stay long as Japanese work schedules don’t allow much time for relaxing.

Full nudity is expected, although sexes are kept apart by law and many sentos refuse people with tattoos. Like most things Japanese, the sento is efficient and decorative, but not elaborate. The most interesting are the onsens, natural hot springs and outdoor baths hidden deep among nature.

Where to experience it: Head to the mountains and try Minakami Onsen by Mount Tanigawa or the onsen in Kirishuma National Park. Or try Beppu, which has more hot springs than anywhere else in Japan, including ‘hells’ which are too hot for bathing.

Classic traveller tale: “I hadn’t minded being naked until three Japanese women started pointing towards my breasts. I don’t think they’d seen white ones before, and judging by their gesticulating they had a particular fascination for my left nipple.”

Hungarian thermal baths

The Turks brought their hamams to Hungary when they occupied the country in the 16th century. While constructing them on thermal springs they had the same dedication to splendour and elegance.

However, rather than hot stones, they used the natural steam and warm water to induce sweating. From the outside they resemble palaces, and the vast open pools are surrounded by sculptures and ornate decoration. Hungarians can spend all day there, and the most common way to pass the time away is a game of chess in the bath.

Where to experience it: There are several good options in Budapest. Szechenyi Baths are the largest medicinals in Europe. Even grandeur is the Gellert Baths, where some of the pools seem to be set in a Roman ruin.

Classic traveller tale: “I was a good chess player but beating a local bath resident was impossible. Every time I had an important move, my opponent would change position, swinging his testicles behind his king.”

The Dutch spa

Across the world the Dutch have a reputation for nudity and openness. Sex scenes are played on afternoon television and most beaches have ‘clothing optional’ sections.

But little can prepare a traveller for the sight of a Dutch sauna. Hundreds of naked bodies roam around, the mix of sexes somehow stopping short of a full-blown orgy.

They’re not naturists; just normal people aged 18 to 80, happily getting nude and swimming breaststroke while others watch. Often shocking and mortifying to visitors, the full nakedness extends to showers, changing facilities and sun loungers. Most bizarre is the group sessions where up to 100 nude bodies sit in a circular sauna and meditate.

Where to experience it: There are many across the Netherlands. In central Amsterdam try Sauna Deco where “from a hygienic point of view, swimwear is not allowed”.

Classic traveller tale: “Mustering all my courage I exposed my body, reminding myself that I would never see these people again. Two naked men walked into the sauna, pausing before sitting next to me. Disaster! They were receptionists at my hotel! ‘Hello,’ they calmly said. ‘Did you enjoy your breakfast this morning?’”

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