Stephanie Fsadni finds that, contrary to popular perception, the antithesis of fast food has nothing to do with slow cooking or gourmet dining. She takes her time to understand the Slow Food Movement, beyond its role in culinary heritage.

Statistics show that a significant percentage of the Maltese population is dying as a result of food-related diseases, such as cardiovascular problems, diabetes, cholesterol and obesity.

One of the reasons behind this calamity stems from poor eating habits, according to cultural historian Noel Buttigieg.

“Unfortunately, we are becoming more interested in convenient, poor-quality foods as these are considered enough to satiate our hunger,” Mr Buttigieg laments.

“This is coupled with unregulated portions and lack of exercise.

“We also seem to be less interested in the provenance of our food. We are losing our sense of seasonality and the anticipation of waiting for a particular food to be in season. We are losing our sense of taste and we are choosing to consume products that generate long-term harm to our bodies.”

All this goes contrary to the concept of ‘slow food’, considered to be the antithesis of fast food, but contrary to popular perception, has nothing to do with slow cooking or gourmet dining.

The Slow Food Movement has humble origins. In 1986, Italian journalist Carlo Petrini tried to rally a protest against the opening of a fast-food establishment in Rome’s Piazza di Spagna. Amid this failed attempt, Petrini’s idea continued to spread with relative ease, reaching into over 150 countries. Today, Slow Food International has thousands of members around the world, including Malta.

Petrini’s vision is that everyone has a fundamental right to the pleasure of good food, but this right comes with a responsibility: that of protecting the heritage of biodiversity, culture and knowledge that make this pleasure possible.

Consuming pre-manufactured food is a quick and easy solution and eating is becoming an insipid utilitarian human experience

The movement’s approach to agriculture, food production and gastronomy is based on a concept of food quality defined by three interconnected principles: good – a fresh and flavoursome seasonal diet that satisfies the senses and is part of our local culture; clean, referring to food production and consumption that does not harm the environment, animal welfare or our health; and fair, meaning accessible prices for consumers and fair conditions and pay for small-scale producers.

“These same principles have now been recognised by the Vatican. Recently, Pope Francis had a telephone conversation with Petrini, during which the Holy See emphasised the importance of the world of farming,” reveals Mr Buttigieg.

Slow Food Malta, set up in 2009, is in fact constantly discussing ways of engaging more with local producers, who face several challenges when competing with the availability of cheaper, imported products.

“Since World War II, subsistence agricultural methods continued to give way to commercial farming as full-time peasants started to abandon their fields and as agricultural land continued to be valued more for property development,” says Mr Buttigieg, who co-authored the book L-Istorja tal-Kultura ta’ l-Ikel f’Malta (the history of food culture in Malta) in 2004, and who is currently conducting a study on bread and bakers in late 18th-century Malta for his PhD degree.

“Commercial farming has led to the free and uncontrolled use of chemicals, tainting large parts of what remains of Malta’s agricultural land. These synthetic products have now contaminated our soils and also our aquifers.”

Productive land is situated in areas with poor air quality due to pollution, and agricultural land needs to go through a natural cleansing process, which could take several years before attaining desired levels.

As regards animal husbandry, the movement encourages farmers to feed their livestock the right stuff and avoid growth hormones.

Slow Food Malta works closely with the local branch of the Organic Food Movement, which is now a recognised entity, vested with the right of issuing certification of proof to confirm that products are produced and processed according to strict rules safeguarding the environment and animals.

“There is a lot of work that needs to be done to have acceptable quality standards; however, we already have a small, yet excited, group of farmers, who are working towards improving their products,” continues Mr Buttigieg.

“These individuals should be applauded for their commitment in view of the challenge the local market poses when their product reaches the retail point. And the authorities should continue to invest in this direction to ensure the proliferation of these practices. Malta, and especially Gozo, have a lot of potential in this regard, and every opportunity should be given to farmers to harmonise their practices with the environment. This would mean that the consumers’ food quality would make a significant improvement.”

Then it is up to the consumer to choose his food responsibly. The tendency among the population is, however, to lean towards ready-cooked foods.

“Societies are today experiencing lifestyles that are closely controlled by time. Humans have developed scheduled daily activities, and the ability to be constantly occupied is now perceived as another form of status symbol,” comments Mr Buttigieg.

“Cooking is becoming a chore. Humans prefer passive activities, such as watching TV rather than engaging in cooking healthy food. Consuming pre-manufactured food is a quick and easy solution and eating is becoming an insipid utilitarian human experience.”

The industrialisation of cooking and eating is also driven by globalisation and the cornucopia of products that fill supermarket shelves.

“Is it possible to imagine life without a supermarket? Are we aware that the younger generation is oblivious to the whole concept of food seasonality?”

Mr Buttigieg says there might be this nostalgic drive towards a culinary past, with memory triggering the adage “tan-nanna ħelu manna”. But slow food is not just about culinary heritage; it’s also about what is being consumed now.

“We need to start to eat local. Since most of our food is imported, then you might want to think about the amount of fossil fuel used for that product to reach your plate. Consequently, food has an impact on climate change. If we eat local, then the amount of fossil fuel used is definitely less. We give our farmers jobs and their products a fair price.

“We need to be more proactive about our health and seriously invest in those solutions that could avert the challenges our society is faced with. We need to visit less the pharmacy and more the FARMacy,” Mr Buttigieg concludes.

About Slow Food Malta

Slow Food Malta (SFM) was set up in 2009 by Prof. Carmel Cassar to propagate Petrini’s vision. The Slow Food Malta Convivium, as each network is called, operates from the Institute for Tourism Travel and Culture at the University of Malta. Its members are mainly involved in the teaching and researching of food studies, or are directly working in the food and culinary industry.

SFM promotes the idea of healthy living through a variety of meals based on authentic and historical research, employing correct recipes and cooking methods. It also organises dinners in places that are willing to resonate the ideas of the Slow Food Movement.

Members are regularly invited to deliver talks, and for the past two years, the Malta College of Arts, Science and Technology Agribusiness Institute has invited the movement to participate in their annual open weekend, where visitors could taste food prepared by some of the members.

SFM is investing a lot of energy in promoting its values among students.

“Publishing guidelines of what should be sold in schools is not enough unless these are enforced. Several of our students are consuming foods that are high in fats, salt and very processed. While we constantly push towards their academic achievement, we are also regularly feeding them junk,” says Mr Buttigieg, Convivium leader of SFM.

“Parents, schools and the government should seriously embark on a proactive exercise to avert this.

“This has now become one of our missions – the need to instil among our younger generation the joy of healthy eating.”

One successful project has been going on for almost four years at Verdala International School in Pembroke. It took on a new lease of life last year when a number of students and parents adopted some abandoned open spaces and converted them into a kitchen garden. This turned out to be a true labour of love and the number of students, aged between 10 and 14, engaged in this project, doubled.

The students also prepared a sumptuous meal using some of the products grown on the school premises. They are now planning on growing organic potatoes. SFM is working with this school to explore new avenues that could turn this initiative into a pilot project.

A slow food dinner is planned for November 22, while another yearly activity called Terra Madre Day – a global celebration of the three basic principles spearheading the Slow Food Movement – is scheduled for December 10.

For this occasion, SFM is organising cooking classes and educational talks, and is planning to share the Verdala International School pilot project with any interested shareholders.

For more information, visit the Slow Food Malta Facebook page or send an e-mail to slowfoodmalta@hotmail.com or to Noel Buttigieg at noel.buttigieg.97@um.edu.mt.

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