(Serves 6 to 8)

3 large mild onions, peeled and thinly sliced
6 tbsps extra virgin olive oil
3 large round fennel bulbs, sliced
6 tbsps white wine, water or vegetable stock
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
Gozo sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 tbsps sultanas or raisins
3 tbsps toasted pinenuts or flaked almonds
24 black olives
3 cans sardines in olive oil

Gently fry the onion in oil for 10 to 15 minutes, and then add the fennel, the liquid and cumin and coriander. Continue cooking for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring from time to time to prevent sticking. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and stir in the fruit and nuts. Spoon the mixture onto plates, and serve hot, warm or cold, with a few olives and a couple of drained sardines on top. Use the feathery fennel tops for garnish.

For a more substantial first course, heap the mixture on top of half a warmed ftira, and for a more elaborate dish, on rounds of pre-baked pastry, enriched with egg yolk and made very short and crisp with plenty of butter or vegetable shortening.

Cook’s note: if bulb fennel is unavailable, use extra onions and add plenty of chopped wild fennel and include some seeds and flowers for added flavour and decoration.