Afternoon tea is as symbolic of the British as, dare I say it, fish and chips. However, unlike the latter, it has always had a certain upper-class ethos, with overtones of eating dainty little cakes and drinking tea from fine china. But in reality, the whole process has far more deep-rooted origins that are intrinsically linked with Britain’s colonial past.
Nowadays, it’s economic wealth that determines your position in society. But in Victorian times, one was born into the upper classes – it was a birthright and you were expected to uphold ancestral heritage while lamenting the plight of the impoverished upper classes. Back in those days, afternoon tea was regarded as an informal way of socialising – it was rather like going out for a coffee today. That said, it wasn’t that informal and the established protocols were strictly adhered to. For instance, you “drank” tea – to “have” tea was considered vulgar by the true gentry. In recent years afternoon tea has enjoyed a new wave of popularity with many hotels, catering establishments and cafes jumping on the bandwagon – however, the basic etiquette has remained relatively unchanged.
After use the napkin should be folded and placed on the left side as an indication to the hostess that you wish to be invited again
Originally all porcelain tea cups were made in China starting from around AD620. These small cups had no handles and the cup was held by placing it between the thumb and the forefinger with the little finger extended for balance. Tea was drunk this way for many centuries until the Meissen Porcelain Company introduced small handles in 1710. However, their small size made it impossible to accommodate even the smallest fingers and, rather than being an affectation, the practice of extending the little finger continued.
At first all tea cups were made from soft paste porcelain and the idea of putting in milk before pouring tea had a practical aspect as it would temper the cup. After 1710 and the discovery of hard paste porcelain, this was no longer deemed necessary and from an etiquette perspective it is neither correct nor incorrect to introduce milk before or after – rather, it is a matter of personal choice. The use of the word ‘China’ remains as a legacy to the country that had invented hard paste china centuries before the Europeans. Also, the phrase “not my cup of tea” actually originated from 15th-century Japan.
By the end of the 1800s drinking tea was established as a great British tradition. In the 19th century a moustache cup was even invented – it was designed with a slit edge projecting from the rim and would allow a gentleman’s moustache to remain dry by resting it on the top lip.
Not everyone would take milk in their tea. In the East it was certainly never the case and a lemon wedge is still the preferred choice of many people. Traditionally this would float in the cup with a clove to enhance the flavour and would be removed and replaced on the saucer before drinking.
There are so many things that we take for granted today but probably took centuries to evolve. For instance, have you ever wondered why a teapot is the shape it is? In the past, the convenient tea bags of today didn’t exist and tea leaves were placed directly in the water. The rounded base allowed for the maximum infusion and expansion of the tea while the low slung spout would make it more difficult for the tea leaves to escape. Incidentally, the spout should always be placed facing the hostess who would always be the first to pour.
For napkins, these should be of the 12-inch variety and they should always, without exception, be placed on the left hand side. After use the napkin should be folded and placed on the left hand side as an indication to the hostess that you wish to be invited again. Once again, such formalities have had a lasting influence, as shown in the phrase “to make ends meet” – this originated in the 17th-century French court where the fashionable ruffled collars of courtiers were covered with napkins when dining.
Even sugar tongs have their own history
When it came to food there were again strict rules to be followed. Scones were freshly baked and bite sized – in the 1800s a warming dome would be placed over them to keep them at the right temperature. Scones would never be cut in half but rather a small piece would be cut off with a knife with the butter, jam and cream then applied. Scones would be placed on the top of a three-tier stand. The second tier would hold savouries and delicate tea sandwiches while the bottom tier would be dedicated to sweets.
Even sugar tongs have their own history. The word “tong” is derived from the Indonesian word “denk” which means “to bite.” Sugar tongs were first introduced in Europe in 1780 and were used with compressed sugar. Sugar was sold in a shape that resembled a witch’s hat and this is where the phrase “I’ll eat my hat” comes from.
So it would seem that the origins of the humble British cuppa are not so humble after all. Tea today is a stalwart of society and something that we turn to when stressed, tired or just in need of a five minute break.
It has been recently confirmed that drinking two cups a day reduces blood pressure and the rate of heart disease and can help prevent blood clots. So next time the clock strikes four and you reach for the tea and biscuits, think again. Though the tea police may not be lurking at your kettle you are actually drinking something that is steeped in history, if you’ll pardon the pun.