Air Malta has been operating a direct twice-weekly flight tothe French city of Lyon for some time now.

If it’s French culture you are after, this is probably as authentic as it gets

But if you ask most people if they know anything about Lyon, they will probably give you a blank stare and mumble something about “plenty of wine and cheese” and move on quickly to thenext subject.

With a population of around two million, Lyon is the third largest city in France and often considered one of its most important, and wealthiest, economic centres.

Yet, it is very much overshadowed internationally by its better known big brothers – Paris which, as the capital, lures tourists by the millions each year, and Marseilles, which is the starting place for many visitors headed to the Mediterranean coast.

So what does Lyon have to offer visitors? Well, if it’s French culture you are after, this is probably as authentic as it gets. International tourists – bar a handful of golden oldies who disembark from the Rhône river cruise boats, food afficionados who are in the know about the city’s rich culinaryheritage and some Asians who pass through on a group tour – are few and far between.

Lyon is the place where hardcore French culture is relatively untainted by outside influences, a surprising fact given that thecity is listed as the European headquarters for Interpol and Euronews and home to many a French banking, pharmaceutical and chemical company.

This is the place where you can explore ‘traditional’ and more creative French food, watch Guignol puppet shows (much loved by French children but largely unknown outside France) and visit the Lumière Brothers Museum.

Auguste and Louis Lumièreare credited with being pioneers of cinematography but, whether they were the first, as theFrench seem to insist, is a matter of debate.

Regardless of who developed what first, they did play a significant role in the French, and European, cinema industry in making it accessible to the mass market.

Founded on the site of a Gaulish hilltop settlement, Lyon was named Lugdunum by the Romans in 43BC, who quickly realised the city’s strategic appeal due to its confluence on two rivers – the Rhône and the Saône – and location in a valley wedged between the Massif Central and the Alps.

Today, the old town (Vieux Lyon) and the city’s Roman remains are a protected Unesco World Heritage Site.

During the 19th century, Lyon rose to international prominence as an industrial town, famous for its silk production and weaving industry. Yet, the city’s silk tradition actually dates back to around 1535 when Francis I granted a royal charter to two merchants to develop a silk trade in Lyon.

Historically, Italian silk wasconsidered too expensive forthe French fashion industry which wanted lighter and cheaperfabrics, and the French wereanxious to build up their ownsilk production.

From the 16th century, Lyon became the capital of the European silk trade, a position it would keep until the industry was hard hit by silkworm disease and the Great Depression during the19th century.

In later years, France’s silk industry struggled to keep upwith increasing international competition from the likes of Japan and sadly, today, little remains in Lyon of this important industry that once fed almost one third of the city.

The best place to peek into the city’s former silk glory days is the Croix Rousse, ‘the hill that works’ area, and to explore the traboules – covered passageways which were used by the silk industry and other merchants to transporttheir products.

These covered passages – unique to Lyon – were later used as escape routes by the local resistance during World War II.

Amazingly, downtown Lyon was pretty much left intact after World War II so much of its beautiful old buildings ‘escaped’ from the devastation seen in other European cities.

On the subject of World War II, Lyon was also the headquarters of the notorious Klaus Barbie, better known as the Butcher of Lyon, who, after evading justice for many years was eventually hunted down in Bolivia and extradited back to France. He stood trial in Lyon and died in prison in 1991.

On a more pleasant note, Lyon has long been considered the French capital of gastronomy, partly due to the godfather of its cuisine, Paul Bocuse.

Born in 1926, he has been a mentor for many of the city’s upcoming chefs and after whom the prestigious Bocuse d’Or award is named.

The city’s culinary heritage is further boosted by its proximity to two of France’s well-known wine regions: the Beaujolais and the Côtes du Rhône.

Lyon is particularly famousfor bouchons – no, not traffic jams although there are also quite afew of these around – but its down-to-earth cosy restaurants withsimple but imaginative fare, which is generally quite fatty, heavyon meat and served up ingenerous portions.

Lyon has long been considered the French capital of gastronomy, partly due to the godfather of its cuisine,Paul Bocuse

If you’re a conservative meat-eater, lyonnais specialities – like tête de veau (calf head), andouillette (a sausage of pork or veal intestines), quenelles de brochet (pike dumplings), and a menu where the French delicacy foie gras (goose liver, controversial for its often cruel production techniques) – appear left, right and centre stuffed into everything, from starters to even macaroons.

But, for the less adventurous taste buds, there are some delicious local cheeses like Saint- Marcellin – recognisable by its strong aftertaste – and don’t be put off by the name cervelle de canut (literally, silk worker’s brains) because it’s actually a pretty nice soft cheese dip seasoned with herbs.

After three days, you’ll probably start to get bored with the city but the real beauty of Lyon is its location in France.

Right on the doorstep are vineyards, the Alps and within a three-hour drive or train journey you can reach the Provence and Côte d’Azur regions or Paris.

It’s the perfect gateway to start your French holiday or to get an insight into ‘real’ French culture.

Tips

Hop-on hop-off bus tour. In just over an hour you can see all the city’s highlights and decide where you want to backtrack to.

Rent a bike and cycle around town. But remember to take your credit card as they block €150 as a deposit.

Try out lyonnaise cuisine in a local bistro. The set menus (two or three courses) are better value – and equally as good as theà la carte.

Take a coffee break at Seve and Pignol. These are two of the oldest, albeit most expensive pâtisseries (bakeries) – and my personal favourites – in the city. www.chocolatseve.com, www.pignol.fr.

Observe the locals. Each arrondissement (district) is quite different and gives you an insight into different French behaviour, from the snobbish second district to the hippie-like Croix Rousse, the bourgeoisie around the sixth and the more touristic Vieux Lyon (Old Town).

Get moving in the Parc Tête d’Or. One of Europe’s largest urban parks and home to the city’s zoo, you can rent a four-person bike and cycle around or hire an electric boat on the small lake.

City of Lights: Lyon is known for its four-day Fête des Lumières light festival in December.

Watch out for…

Bring a local language book: A French dictionary or phrase book is a must if you want to figure out what you’re choosing on the menu, as many menus are only in French, and you might end up eating something you are allergic to, or something you never wanted to eat in the first place. Waiters rarely pay attention to food allergies.

Nicotine overdose: Over one in three French people smoke and in Lyon smokers puff inconsiderately at shop doors, on main streets, out of their windows and on terraces of bars and restaurants. So if you suffer from lung or other health issues, you should be prepared.

Stay cool: Like anywhere, some shop assistants and waiters are helpful; others are just downright rude. Don’t try to order a glass of prosecco or a steak well done. This is France, where the shop assistant and waiter know everything better than you, and never ever criticise the local food or wine, even if it deserves it.