A dish of traditional scouse stew. Right: The Liver Building, one of the ‘Three Graces’.Scousers, born comedians, have a quick quip for everyone. The inclement weather that sweeps in from Ireland across the River Mersey does not dampen their enthusiasm for life. Liverpool shines out because of its friendly welcome.
Without doubt, it was the people of Liverpool – the Scousers – that made my visit so special- Caroline Crutchley
After arriving at John Lennon Airport, I stepped off a bus at Liverpool One to be greeted by weather that made the short walk to my hotel a trial of strength between the wind, rain and me.
The Hard Days Night Hotel (www.harddaysnighthotel.com) is the only Beatles-inspired hotel in the world and, as Liverpool is their city, it had to be my choice.
Situated right in the heart of the Beatles Quarter, it was a great place to immerse myself into the 1960s era. The modernised listed building had been Beatle-ised right down to the ‘muzac’.
It was the experience I expected and wanted. Paintings and black and white photos adorned the reception, bar, stairs and rooms.
I was blown by the stiff breeze to the Albert Docks and The Beatles Story. Memories flooded back of the skiffle groups and Memphis music of the 1950s, from which the young rebels emerged to make Liverpool and the rest of the world rock.
Even if, like me, you were not a Beatles fan (too young, just), I appreciated their legacy. Liverpool is still turning out the stars today, whether musicians, comics or poets.
The next day I joined my local Blue Badge guide, Sylvia O’Malley. Her enthusiasm for her city was infectious, even in the drizzle. We were off on The Beatles Tour to see the childhood homes of Paul McCartney and John Lennon that are now preserved by the National Trust. Tours have to be pre-booked (www.nationaltrust.org.uk).
Drives down Penny Lane and to the gates that lead to Strawberry Fields are must-do activities. The Penny Lane road sign is the most stolen in the world!
St Peter’s church hall in Woolton is where the young Quarryman Lennon first met McCartney. The green suburbs of Liverpool are just as important as the River Mersey.
In Mathew Street we descended the steep steps into the new Cavern Club that is 75 per cent built with original bricks. The dark arched space was a hive of activity – beers being drunk and musicians playing on the cramped stage.
The clientele was a mix of Japanese – they were everywhere – and locals of a certain age still living the dream. The wall of fame outside is testament to all the number one hits that came from local acts.
The Beatles Quarter was a mass of pubs and live music venues.
I had a coffee in the Welsford cafe at the massive Anglican Cathedral, which is the largest in the UK and the fifth-largest cathedral in the world.
The Catholic Cathedral is a modern concrete circular building nicknamed ‘Paddy’s Wigwam’.
The museums, all free, had amazing art collections due to local wealthy families, such as the Cunards and Courtaulds.
Once the premier port after London for the entire British Empire, Liverpool was a mecca for culture and still is.
With a vibrant student population, Liverpool is good value. I enjoyed fish and chips that night and nearly started a row when I asked about the famous Scouse stew. Husband and wife nearly came to blows after trying to explain how it is made. It seemed everyone had their own special recipe and the next day I got my chance to try it.
Liverpool also means football and a short bus ride to Anfield was rewarded with a tour of the famous stadium. With diehard fans, I walked into the Kop to the strains of You’ll Never Walk Alone. Even with the stands empty, I had goose bumps.
After touring the museum, I descended to the Boot Room. Not the smelly tiny room where apprentices polished boots, but a recently opened sports cafe. Each booth had a TV showing great Liverpool FC moments.
This was my opportunity to try Scouse. Poor Irish immigrants used lamb, but minced beef, corned beef, stewing beef and whatever vegetables could be found are other options.
My attentive server gave me a bit of advice: “Try it with the magic ingredient – brown HP sauce”. Within seconds, she had acquired a bottle for me. My Scouse was served with beetroot and red cabbage and was well worth the bus trip.
Back to Liverpool city centre for a cruise aboard the ‘booze boat’ Royal Iris, the Mersey ferry made famous by Gerry Marsden and the Pacemakers.
The buildings rolled past as a commentary filled in the history. The grand port buildings, the Three Graces, must have been a stunning sight as the immigrants arrived into port. The Liver Building celebrated its 100th year in 2011.
A short walk from the ferry terminal is the new Liverpool Museum, a great space. Dubbed the ‘peoples’ museum’, it chronicles the social history of this special city.
Without doubt, it was the people of Liverpool – the Scousers – that made my visit so special. I asked so many of them: “what makes you so talented?” None could really give me an answer, just a shrug of the shoulders that said: “we are born that way. It must be the Mersey.”
You will never walk alone for long in Liverpool. With its historical background of slavery, industrial life and music, Liverpool is the star.