Air France has just launched a new twice-weekly service from Malta to Toulouse. The south-western French town, built in beautiful pink brick, is just over two hours away. Here’s how to have a rosy couple of days in ‘La Ville Rose’.
Take a river cruise under the endless rosy bridges to get your bearings and see some of the town’s most famous sights- Helen Raine
Where to go on day one
Morning: Start with a stroll around the city to soak in the warmth of all that blushing architecture (even the roof tiles are pink). Once you’re saturated with colour, head to the St Sernin-Basilica.
This Romanesque church has a beautiful tiered frontage that demands to be photographed and offers a good behind-the-scenes tour of the crypt and altar. It also boasts a rather impressive organ. On Saturday mornings, anexcellent flea market covers the cobbles outside.
Lunch: Try ‘Le 7 Place Saint Sernin’ opposite the basilica. Their two-course set menu, packed with local dishes, is €24. For dessert, pick up a bag of ‘croquants’ (biscuits made from almonds and caramelised sugar) from a vendor.
Afternoon: The River Garonne and the 240-kilometre-long Canal du Midi glide through Toulouse, the latter meeting with another canal to link the Mediterranean to the Atlantic Ocean.
Take a river cruise under the endless rosy bridges to get your bearings and see some of the town’s most famous sights (most tours leave from the Ponts Jumeaux or Quai de la Daurade). If you’re feeling more active, you can bike or walk the shady, tree-lined tow paths.
Dinner: At Les Caves de la Marechale, (3 Rue Jules Chalande, near the main square) the chef will come out to discuss what you want to eat, perching himself on a little stool to do so. The place is atmospheric with old, vaulted cellar ceilings and the evening menu costs €29.50.
If the ‘gateau a la broche’ is on the menu, choose it. This bizarre cake is placed on a spit and rotated to cook.
Where to go on day two
Morning: The Victor Hugo market is well over a century old and frequented by chefs and shop keepers for top notch produce.
Cheeses are made the traditional way and taste so divine you’re guaranteed to end up taking some home. You can easily while away a morning gaping at the merchandise.
Lunch: Eat ‘cassoulet’, a traditional white bean stew flavoured with sausage and slow cooked. Le Colombier does it well (14 Rue de Bayard), but it is also served at some of the restaurants in and around the cobbled Place du Capitole.
Afternoon: Toulouse is famous for woad, a bluey-purple dye that was highly prized in medieval times. La Maison de la Violette celebrates this vibrant colour and the violet flowers of the same hue, dousing cakes, chocolates and pretty much everything else in between in a riot of purple.
The show room and cafe is housed on an original wooden house boat to add to its charm. It’s moored on the Canal du Midi near the SNCF railway station. Visit www.lamaisondelaviolette.com.
With the scent of violets trailing you, head off next to the ‘City of Space’. It has a life-sized rocket in its front garden and the extra terrestrial theme takes off from there, including exhibits of items from space, a full-size model of the Space Station, astronaut activities and a planetarium. Any budding Buzz Aldrins will love it. Visit www.cite-espace.com.
Alternatively, plane spotters could channel their inner nerd at the Airbus factory, watching workers assemble planes. Book ahead on 00 33 (0)5 34 39 42 00 or www.taxiway-resa.fr, request a tour in English and take yourpassport.
Dinner: At L’Entrecote (15 Bld de Strasbourg), there’s no menu, although the waitress will ask how you want your steak done (and sniff contemptuously if you say ‘well done’). The walnut salad, fries and steak are excellent so expect queues for a table. Round the evening off with a glass of local Gaillac or Fronton wine. Au Pere Louis has oak barrels and old bottles of wine lining the walls (45 Rue des Tourneurs) for an authentic feel.
Before you leave
If there is time, the Church of Les Jacobins is so lovely that it inspired Salvador Dalì in his painting Santiago el Grande. Napoleon stabled his horses here for a while, which didn’t do the place any favours, but it has now been restored to its former glory and even hosts concerts in the cloisters.
Where to stay
If your pockets are deep, try The Grand Hotel Opera, housed in a 17th century convent. If you’re into Napoleonic velvet drapes, high ceilings and romantic balconies over the square, this is the place for you.
It couldn’t be more central, being located in the Place du Capitole (the hotel façade forms part of the square). This is the kind of place where they take your luggage and park your car for you.
If you can’t afford the price tag of €220 for a room, then you could visit one of the two restaurants specialising in French cuisine. It’s less frogs’ legs and snails than roast duck with honeyed spices and Rum Baba. Lunch, a glass of wine and a coffee is €19 in Les Jardins.
Visit www.grand-hotel-opera.com.
If you are after quality and good value, hit The Lofts, which comprises 12 apartments atop Toulouse’s tallest building. The view is panoramic and there’s a kitchen which is helpful for long stays or families. Prices start at €175 per night for a studio.
For larger groups, there are two-bedroom apartments. The location is also very central, with Toulouse’s main station, the Gare Matabiau and the underground Metro (Station Jean Jaurès) just a few minutes’ walk away, likewise the main shopping areaand grandiose Town Hall in the Place du Capitole.
Visit www.theloftstoulouse.com.
If you’re broke, try Camping Toulouse Le Rupe. A week in a mobile home herecosts from €260 for two people, withadditional guests allowed for a smalladditional charge. The site is eight kilometres from the centre, but you can bike it from this green belt area along the Canal du Midi right into town.
Visit www.camping-toulouse.com.