Kerala, India, ‘God’s Own Country’, as the locals call it, is an evergreen land bursting with colour, almost too laid-back at times, and incredibly beautiful.
A typical day is to up anchor, potter along the rivers and canals, eat, munch and eat again as the crew enthusiastically point out places, flora and fauna of interest
Without doubt a perfect relaxed honeymoon destination to simply be together – after all a honeymoon is meant to be a deux.
If you’re after a pulsating night life or hectic social scene, then Kerala perhaps is not the place to go – although in some of the more touristy places a few hotels do offer entertainment. Instead, sit back and be entranced by the local cultural shows – many of which can certainly rival any entertainment.
If you’re looking for a really different type of honeymoon, then take a boat trip on the Keralan Backwaters in a Kettvettalum – a converted working boat. This is definitely not a traditional type of holiday for a honeymoon but will certainly leave an indelible memory.
‘The Backwaters’ is the name given to a chain of brackish lagoons, five large lakes, 1,500 km of canals/waterways all fed by 38 rivers running virtually the length of the Keralan Malabar coastline.
It has its own way of life –where the daily routine follows the rhythm of the waters – the ebb and flow of life.
These days many old working boats have been turned into delightful floating ‘holiday homes’ complete with all mod cons – perfect for escaping far from the proverbial ‘maddening crowd’. (New modern ‘replicas’ are also being built but mine was an original, meticulously maintained by CG Hearth Group craftsmen).
Kettvettalum cruises are normally about one to three nights long and usually form part of a longer holiday: either by adding on a beach stay or combined/including a tour exploring the lovely state.
As an example, I followed a traditional routing when I went to Kerala – starting off in the delightful old city of Cochin, going ‘up country’ to the stunningly green and verdant Thekkady where I stayed at the Spice Village – a charming eco resort perfectly placed for visiting the Periyar National Park and Tiger Reserve.
Next I visited the Backwaters, and chilled out at the beautiful Coconut Lagoon on the shores of Vembanad Lake, before embarking on the cruise. Finally I ended up on the coast at the Marari Beach Resort, walking the blindingly white gold sands, swimming in the infinity pool, having a massage and learning how to cook – Keralan style.
If you don’t want a tour, I still suggest an overnight in Cochin to get over the jet lag: it’s an easy transfer to the dock to board your Kettvettalum. Once aboard, life changes and slows down. Time becomes irrelevant... lazy days slip by very quickly.
Life becomes busy doing nothing – apart from eating the ever present snacks and meals, reclining in delightful ‘steamer’ chairs while watching the amazing scenery as you float by. Cameras are essential – the crew will take endless snaps of you for your album. It really is a time to be a deux, as the crew miraculously seem to disappear once the cruise is over.
The boats vary in size. Mine was a sleek one-bedroomed 60 footer with all mod cons owned by the group that organised my tour. Each Kettvettalum is fitted with a maximum 90hp engine, so we literally tore through the pack of boats, some with five or six bedrooms, to get the best night anchorage.
You could see some of the other captains, trying to coax a knot or two more out of their lumbering barges – but we were a true racing thoroughbred. From the amused laughter and catcalls, as we sped by, you could tell this was friendly rivalry and great fun for all.
The crew are all Backwaters’ men, born and bred on the waters; each had a love and natural understanding of the waters. The children of the Backwaters are more at home on the water than on land – most paddle a canoe before they can walk.
A typical day is to up anchor, potter along the rivers and canals, eat, munch and eat again as the crew enthusiastically point out places/flora and fauna of interest. Coconut, cardamom, cinnamon and teak trees line the shore. In the air darters, aristocratic Brahmini kites, glorious multi-hued kingfishers and elegant cormorants fly.
Lunch is long and lazy and a siesta is necessary for the crew after their exertions of the morning. Afternoons again are slow... why exert yourself when there’s no need? The cruise is perfect for catching your breath after the hectic razzmatazz of the wedding.
The evening meal is eaten at twilight amid a cacophony of sounds as the resident birds come home to roost. Soft lights, the gentle rhythm of the waters and delicious food makes the mood just about good as it gets.
If the exotic Malabar coasts appeals to you, then the easiest way to get there is to fly direct into Cochin (Kochis), a delightful port, using Emirates from Malta via Larnaca and Dubai. To get over the jetlag a few days can be spent in the capital to explore the old city – don’t miss a visit to a Kathakali dance performance and taste the delicious Syrian Christian and local Keralan cuisine.
See the wonderful mix of cultures visiting Mattancherry Palace, the Jewish town and wonderful old Dutch and Portuguese churches. If you stay in my favourite Cochin hotel – the colonial flavoured Brunton Boatyard (complete with four posters with a step to help you climb up into the bed) you a get a complimentary sunset cruise around the port.
Another bonus is that it’s within a few minutes’ walk of the legendary Chinese fishing nets and local shops.
Links
Spice Cruise: http://www.cghearth.com/index.php?mid=15
Flights: www.emirates.com