Madrid’s stunning streets with fountain-adorned squares reminded me of a necklace string, interspersed with shining pearls.
People-watching at the plazas has been raised to an art form
Plaza de la Cibeles, where the Pope was welcomed last summer, was the first square I visited as the airport shuttle dropped me off in the beating heart of Madrid.
The unspoilt architecture is complimented by a cafe culture so beloved by locals. Here, work and socialising seamlessly merge into one, and life in this city revolves around good food.
With a new government now in place everyone on the streets was hoping for a brighter future.
I stayed at the stylish Hotel Urban, of the Derby Group (www.derbyhotels.com/en/hotel-urban), where an ancient artefact decorated my room behind protective glass. The hotel had its own Egyptian museum in the basement and massive wooden effigies adorning the foyer.
The chef, Joaquin de Felipe, is renowned for serving up scrumptious food in Europa Deco Restaurant. I was not disappointed and, happily sated, I wandered into the Glass Bar for a flute of bubbly cava and found a hip after-work hangout for young Spaniards.
Bar snacks were sushi, popcorn and an interesting multicoloured bowl of ‘crisps’ made from very thin slithers of potatoes, beetroot, aubergine and zucchini. The glass-like furniture and white lighting made it a great place to chill.
The next day at the buffet breakfast, I decided to hit the fresh fruit, creamy yogurt and freshly squeezed Seville orange juice for the healthy start I needed. But the young waiter was most concerned that I had not eaten enough and insisted on explaining the array of Spanish foods.
Churros – deep fried batter rings – arrived and were dipped into thick, sweet chocolate. Quince jelly atop soft cheese, crusty bread smothered in olive oil and fresh tomato and smoked salmon followed. Now that is a Spanish breakfast!
Typical elevenses at cafes include strong coffee, gossip, a sweet montecados biscuit or a savoury snack of Iberian ham or chorizo sausage.
People-watching at the plazas has been raised to an art form. Priorite at 42 Calle Montera is owned by Josefa, who has styled the cafe with great coffee cocktails, snacks and an art exhibition space for local artists. Close to the Congress Centre and best hotels, it is becoming a local hot spot. Ask for delta mojito coffee if you fancy a drink with a Havana rum kick.
A well-earned rest under the shadows of the trees at Plaza de Espana gave me time to enjoy the statue of Don Quixote and his faithful servant and donkey.
With work done it is soon tapas time. Tapa actually means small plate and is a staple lunch for many of the busy workers.
I tried the tapas bars in the side streets, the domain of local men with bar food laid out in front of them. Muscling my way to the bar to order was a good workout.
What I was actually given was not necessarily what I wanted. I am not into entrails and tripe, however tasty they may be. The shrimps and octopus were pushed aside too.
Once the shuffling of little dishes was completed, it was a matter of eating what was left. An eclectic mix of the bizarre, the fishy and the stodgy, it is not an easy city to keep the pounds from the waistline. For a real local feel, try Sidremia El Tigre or Tapas Caseras on Calle de Infantas.
Parque del Oeste (West Park) had a panoramic view over the rose garden down to the Manzanares river. Plaza de Oreinte lay in front of the Palacio Real, the home of the king and queen of Spain. The palace’s Jardine de Sabatini (Sabatini Gardens) are open to the public.
In the old quarter, I found an area where local artists congregate and Central Cafe (www.cafecentralmadrid.com) on Angel Square is an early evening haunt with live jazz, played late into the night. This vibrant hangout has been celebrating great music for 25 years.
Villa Rosa offers a stunning example of bright mosaic tiles, and it plays host to flamenco evenings. With a theatre close by, this place really comes alive at night.
Wandering the streets, I heard harmonious male voices and ventured closer. On opening a heavy wooden door, I was beckoned inside. A bottle of cava and a glass appeared on the table and I was serenaded by the merry gentlemen who were happy to accept a visitor into their masculine domain. It transpired that the bar was, in fact, a private club for retirees.
Madrid has a young, vibrant population, and even though they are being affected by a serious recession, their zest for life seemed undiminished
On Calle Mayor, I ate standing at the bar of the Museo Del Jambon (www.museodeljamon.es), with large hams hanging ominously above my head. One mature beast was priced at €120 per kilo.
Nearby Plaza Mayor is a traditional square surrounded by shops that seem trapped in a time warp of tradition.
On Sunday mornings the best place to be seen is browsing the stalls of the Rastro flea market.
Sundown is a time to reflect on the day over more tapas and sweet vermouth, perhaps enjoying the distant purple haze. Living the Spanish lifestyle means not eating an evening meal before 9 p.m., but with shopping centres and art galleries open late, there is plenty to see.
Madrid is a capital city that has not lost its soul to outsiders. Whether shopping for shoes or enjoying the best of Goya or Velázquez at the Museo del Prado, life is for living.
Madrid has a young, vibrant population, and even though they are being affected by a serious recession, their zest for life seemed undiminished.
Whatever the time of day or night, this city never sleeps.