Lorna Borg visited Ethiopia in summer to do voluntary work with the NGO Living Waters. She shares her experience of a different culture from marriage by abduction to malnutrition and odours.

In the highlands of Ethiopia, some 400 kilometres away from the capital city, Addis Ababa, is a lush place called Arramo. The greenery is infinite and the soil is a rich red. One can hardly believe malnutrition is a common ailment here.

The Gedeo tribe that inhabits most of the highlands in mud huts, spanning some 125 kilometres, is gathering on foot from everywhere to celebrate the feast of St Mary on August 21, 2003. The year is not a mistake; 2003 is Ethiopia’s official current year!

Some 3,000 people turned up for this event and 300 received Confirmation from resident Italian Bishop Giovanni Migliorati.

Practically all Westerners are considered clergy in Arramo as tourism is not common. These people have been walking for hours for this ceremony, which lasted all morning.

They came in their best of tattered clothes. Very few, two or three, women can be seen wearing gold, particularly star-shaped earrings, which they bought for themselves through their hard-earned savings. Women work harder than men in Ethiopia.

The Gedeo are a beautiful tribe adorned with an aura of dignity; one that understands and respects the function of marriage in their society. Polygamy is present, however, showing signs of prosperity, albeit not the younger generation’s choice.

Children are numerous in all Ethiopia, and Arramo is no exception. They show up from everywhere. Each family has about six to nine children, who from very early are left to fend for themselves or are looked after by another older sibling. As soon as a girl reaches her puberty she can be expected to marry.

One of the many ways a marriage can take place is by abduction. If a boy likes a girl, he gets friends to kidnap her and keep her hostage at some relative’s place until this boy ’s father goes to the girl’s father to ask for her hand in agreement over some monetary or cattle arrangement. This could cost from 3,000 to 4,000 Birr (equivalent to about €170).

Luckily, if the girl is not fond of the boy it is not customary to go ahead with the union, because they believe a successful marriage requires economic, sexual and emotional support.

Teaching children is a very rewarding experience because they really have a thirst for knowledge. Teaching is carried out in missionary buildings. This proves to be quite an experience for the olfactory sense … not a pleasant one.

A class of 70 can show up on a wet day, going up to 100 or more on a sunny one. They wash about once a week and this is not the only odour clouding the room. There is a rancid buttery smell coming from oils that they use to keep their braids shiny.

Children help with managing the chores, improving safety and caring for the siblings. It is also interesting to mention that the mother gets a three-month lactating break from every other job for each newborn.

Since money is not easily earned, begging can be very tempting. But it robs anyone of their dignity. The congregation working in Arramo has taken over three years to eliminate begging.

They believe giving gratuitously is very damaging and begging can turn them into “parasites” and make them believe anyone outside their culture is an opportunity for acquiring something other than friendship.

False banana, which does not produce banana, is grown and constitutes their staple food known as Wasa, offering very little nutrition as it is mostly fibre. Wasa is well rooted in their tradition, and growing other crops like carrots, cabbages or lettuce in this arable land is uncommon.

The nuns are slowly helping them understand the importance of this introduction to their diet. The country is festering with ailments commonly treated in the West, and malnourishment is sadly a very common sight.

Very often it is hard to tell how old children really are; malnutrition leaves them underdeveloped and weak. Impetigo, runny nose, jiggers (foot parasites), cataracts, diarrhoea, amoebiasis, worms, elephantiasis and goitre as well as HIV/AIDS are some of the illnesses afflicting them.

Some children develop kyphosis through carrying their siblings or jerry cans of water on their backs. Children as young as three or four can be seen carrying bottles of water collected from streams or catchments. Cars do not exist, except for the odd Bajaj motorbike, which can be very dangerous due to the muddy conditions on the highlands.

The congregation, namely the Helpers of Mary, have sent out two Indian nuns, from Mumbai and Goa, to run an incredible mission, which they do with great love and devotion. They serve a community of over 5,000 and offer clinical support, micro-funding for women, support the elderly, run food programmes and build and maintain water catchments in an effort to minimise diseases.

Cattle and donkeys rule the beaten paths as well as the highway. Serious accidents are commonplace on the highway because of these animals calmly crossing to the other side.

Birds are in heaven here. All sorts, sizes and colours, from vultures, to ravens, crows, pelicans, storks, eagles and little grebes. The trees are filled with tunes.

The people sing beautifully and mostly in praise and thanks to God. Their faith is so strong. With every song goes a dance, and they sure can dance.

Living Waters is a registered NGO that has been doing voluntary work in Ethiopia for the last eight years. One project consisted of building 55 concrete homes in Bahir Dar for families who otherwise lived on a garbage mound. Those who wish to help can call Manwel Chetcuti on 9980 4428 or e-mail manwelchetcuti@gmail.com.

www.yfellowship.org/living01.html