Eccentric architect Antoni Gaudi, responsible for the emblematic Sagrada Familia, is, like a Pavlovian reaction, what immediately comes to mind when talking about the Catalan capital. His architecture – Casa Batllo, the Jardines de Can Artigas, Casa Mila, Parc Guell – put Barcelona on the map. And the city, in return, has made ‘God’s architect’ its beloved son and pushes for his canonisation – apt for an architect who spent the final 15 years of his life working and sleeping in his unfinished Sagrada Familia.
Yet Barcelona is much more than one architect, especially in the festive season, when it is more colourful than in the rest of the year. It is also brighter, thanks to the Christmas lights which are switched on by the Mayor of Barcelona – last year, the Catalan capital’s lights covered 60 kilometres. During the same ceremony, the nativity scene on Placa Sant Jaume also welcomes its first visitors.
On Christmas Eve, the Misa del Gallo¸ or midnight mass, is celebrated. If you are willing to travel some 40 kilometres out of the city, mass at the Benedictine monastery is worth the proverbial detour – not only is the monastery a visual spectacle, but it also boasts Europe’s oldest boys’ choir.
Barcelona has also been organising Christmas markets for centuries – the first market was set up in 1786, which means that this year will be the 225th time the city organises a Christmas market. The biggest markets are the Fira de Santa Llucia on the Avenida de la Catedral and the Fira de Nadal a la Sagrada Familia.
On the other hand, Father Christmas is notably absent from the celebrations – this is because for the Catalans, it is the Three Kings of the Orient who deliver the gifts. On the night of the Three Kings – Cavalcada de Reis – Balthasar, Caspar and Melchior arrive at the crib of the infant Jesus. Catalan children leave their shoes out to be filled with gifts, and hay and water for the kings’ camels – in return, they receive their Christmas goodies.
And so do the adults because Barcelona is a great shopping destination. If you have some plastic to burn, Barcelona will greet you with open arms – the Passeig de Gracia, especially, is renowned for its fine Spanish shoes and elegant fashion.
By now, you will have worked up an appetite with all the walking and shopping. If you only have time for a coffee break, order traditional hot chocolate and some pastries to dunk. But since you’re in one of the world capitals of food, it’s a good idea to sit down for a serious tapas spread. The Botega la Plata, down the Calle Merce, serves some of the best tapas in the city. For a more substantial dinner, you will be spoilt for choice as Barcelona has some 10,000 restaurants and more stars – of the Michelin kind – than a Christmas tree.
When looking for a place to fatten up your Christmas wishes, best to avoid the touristy Ramblas area and head to Barceloneta, the old harbour area, which is famous for fish restaurants. But don’t just stick to fish – the typical Catalan Christmas menu includes pasta shells in a meat and vegetable stew, stuffed capon or turkey, and torrons for dessert.
In Barcelona, New Year’s Eve is also celebrated with food. Thousands gather at the Placa de Catalunya – on the stroke of midnight, everyone eats the 12 lucky grapes, one with each stroke, and then toasts the new year with a glass of Cava.