Where to go in Ireland

Before I visited, the Ireland of my mind was all rolling hills, quaint pubs serving Guinness and travelling bands that would turn up, whip me into a dancing frenzy with the locals and then depart. In reality, that wasn’t very far from the truth.

The Emerald Isle has a strong sense of tradition and despite its recent 10-year boom (followed by a most spectacular bust), the feeling of community, hospitality and a nostalgic longing to cling onto the good old days still persists.

Ireland is also small enough to visit the best of the sights without thrashing the hire car to death; locals Maura O’Brien and Michelle Rumley revealed to me their favourite places to visit outside Dublin.

Dingle, County Kerry (southwest)

The most westerly town in Europe, Dingle is located on a far-flung peninsula on the southwest coast. Maura says, “I love it for its weird eco-climates caused by the warm North Atlantic Drift which creates relatively mild weather conditions and supports some unusual marine life.”

You can experience this first hand on the highly recommended Blasket Island Eco Marine Adventure Tour, a boat trip which will help you spot puffins, whales and seals, among other creatures. A quick visit to the island itself is included.

The tour is also likely to take in the famous Fungie, a dolphin which has endeared himself to locals and tourists alike by making Dingle Bay his permanent home.

Back on land, Maura’s favourite view is from the Eask Tower; she suggests you park at the end of the winding road, pay a euro into the honesty box and then hike past more sheep than people for a panoramic view of one of the world’s most beautiful coastlines.

Cork city, County Cork (south)

For Michelle, no visit to Ireland is complete without dropping in on Cork. She says, “The city is really pretty, with pastel buildings lining the waterfront” and she reveals a draw here that you won’t find in many other cities.

Follow a warren of streets to St Anne’s Shandon Church and for €5, you can climb the tower to ring the church bells yourself; music sheets are helpfully provided. Once you’ve clanged through The Sound of Music, the views from the belfry are awesome.

County Cork is also littered with the kind of villages where traditional music is a fixture rather than a tourist attraction, and some really beautiful scenery.

Galway, County Galway (west)

Directly west of Dublin, Galway is another of Michelle’s favourites. She says, “It’s smaller but a very nice city”.

In the city centre, you can have a go at one of Ireland’s most ancient crafts; bone carving. At the Bone Carving Gallery, owner Aoife will help you choose a design and will explain the rudiments of carving in a one day class, meaning you end up with your veryown hand-carved pendant or ornament.

To round off your trip, Michelle says, “From just outside Galway, you can visit the Aran islands where people still speak Gaelic and you get a glimpse of how life used to be in Ireland”.

The ferry costs around €25 per person return (www.aranislandferries.com)

Connemara, County Galway (west)

When Maura really wants to get off the beaten track, she heads to Connemara National Park.

She describes it as a “rough, wet, boggy landscape” which doesn’t sound terribly appealing until you see the phenomenal photographs of the area.

The park authorities have obligingly laid down gravel trails to make some of the paths more accessible. Diamond Hill is a particularly stunning climb, but make sure you have decent shoes and waterproofs – the changes in weather near the summit can be dramatic.

If you want transport to a good hiking spot and an excellent guide, try Hidden Connemara Walking Tours (bookings@hiddenconnemara.com).

Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, County Clare (west)

If you like nothing better than delving into the past, Michelle recommends the folk park. She says, “Bunratty has recreated a rural Irish farming village, where you can experience what life was like in the 19th century. It’s great for the kids, with people weaving and making bread and there’s even an old school.”

Book in advance for the castle dinner, eaten peasant style with your hands and served by wenches in medieval attire. One warning; if you drink too much mead, you could end up in the dungeon; your release is only secured if you can sing a ditty or two. Cheesy, but fun.

The Burren, County Clare (west)

Sticking with County Clare, Michelle recommends TheBurren. This is a limestone karst region of about 25 square kilometres, enclosed within a circle of rural villages.

There’s as much underground here as above; at Doolin Cave, you can see the world’s largest free hanging stalactite or you can visit the prehistoric Aillwee Cave at Ballyvaughan.

There are plenty of prehistoric dolmens, but Michelle also loves Caherconnell Stone Fort. She says, “It’s over 1,000 years old with 3.5-metre-high walls and its interpretation centre mean it’s a great way to experience Ireland’s prehistory.”

Wicklow, County Wicklow (east)

Wicklow has the distinct advantage of being within an easy drive of Dublin, but it is correspondingly busy at peak season. It still retains a relaxed charm, however, and if you are relying on public transport, it’s easy to get here.

There are plenty of good tours to the key attractions, namely the Wicklow Mountains and Glendalough (the Glen of Two Lakes) where much of Braveheart was filmed (you can even see this area in a day tour from Dublin).

Being fairly touristy, you might expect the local pubs to be less authentic, but you’ll be heartily welcomed and it’s all too easy to find yourself worse the wear for Irish whiskey and Guinness at2 a.m. with your new best Irish friends.

The bracing mountain air the next day will help no end.