The John Galliano label, no longer helmed by the disgraced designer, sent out a far more accessible collection at the Paris spring-summer menswear shows, put together by a longtime associate.

Bill Gaytten stepped out the shadows to take a bow at the finale of the first John Galliano Homme show since the celebrated British couturier’s spectacular fall from grace in February.

“I’ve worked with John a long time,” a bedenimed Gaytten, 51, who grew up in Oldham, near Manchester in the north of England, told reporters backstage.

“I first started (working with Mr Galliano) when I was about 24, 25,” he said. “We came to Paris together and started together at Dior together.”

Mr Galliano stood trial on charges of spewing racist and anti-Semitic insults at patrons in a Paris cafe, including one video-recorded incident that led to his firing as creative director at Christian Dior.

He was subsequently dismissed from his own label, majority owned by Dior.

Dior chief executive officer Sidney Toledano – who praised Mr Gaytten backstage for “a great job” – said that no decision had yet been taken on who will succeed Mr Galliano at the parent label, a powerhouse in the French luxury goods industry.

A number of options were being considered, he said without elaborating.

A Dior spokesman said Mr Gaytten was fulfilling the functions of creative director at Galliano – in the absence of a formal corporate announcement of his appointment – amid speculation as to the house’s long-term future.

In contrast to the ever-flamboyant Mr Galliano, Mr Gaytten – a specialist in cutting – sent out a remarkably more wearable collection, albeit with nods to his predecessor’s sensibilities.

Building on a 1960s Swinging London theme, the show opened with military jackets with pilgrim hats, then moved into colourful David Hockney-esque outfits and a parade of underwear including candy-striped hipsters.

Surprisingly, the suits were probably the most business-friendly of any others seen since the spring-summer shows began in the French capital.

Asked to set out his vision for the lable, Mr Gaytten replied: “I think keeping the cult of Mr Galliano. It’s always romantic, there’s always a narrative – and cool cutting, which is what I do.”

He replied “yes, well, yes I have,” when asked if he had been in touch with Mr Galliano recently, but then refrained from saying more.