Construction cranes are as ubiquitous as wine critics in Bordeaux’s prized vineyards as leading chateaux brand their estates by transforming their cellars into architectural show pieces.

In the case of Chateau Clerc Milon, located across the road from the illustrious vineyards of Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Lafite Rothschild, the wine scored with critics but it sorely needed an identity with consumers. It lacked a proper chateau, the onsite vat room was rudimentary and the cellar was located three kilometres away in the lacklustre village of Pauillac.

“Clerc Milon was nothing to be seen, nothing to look at,” said Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, owner of both Mouton and Clerc Milon, at the unveiling Monday, of the new 3,582-square-metre winery, which included a spectacular firework display set to Rossini’s opera La Cenerentola.

“It will give Clerc Milon an aura, a prestige that the wine already had. Today, it is something to look at,” she told 300 guests, including many from the beau monde of Paris such as former first lady Bernadette Chirac, ex-minister Bernard Kouchner and US film-maker and winemaker Francis Ford Coppola.

Rising from a crest called Mousset, the clean lines take the form of a temple. A vast deck looks out over Mouton and Lafite. Inside, scenographer Richard Peduzzi has created an elegant and vibrant space.

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