Young food critic rates ‘kid-friendly’ eateries

Eli Knauer has a ravenous appetite for seeking out the juiciest meats and sweetest desserts in Baltimore restaurants. But at just 10 years old, he is no ordinary food critic.

Standing just 1.2 metres tall, Knauer may appear diminutive, but he has an expansive vocabulary with which he praises, and occasionally skewers, the eateries he visits at least once a week with his parents.

The idea for his online review column flourished during a summer vacation after he told his mother he wanted to become a food critic when he grows up and she said he needed to first start a blog.

“Adventures of a Koodie” – or a kid foodie – chronicles Knauer’s take on restaurants in and around Baltimore on the US East Coast, as well as other areas he visits with his family of five.

Nearly a year and more than 50 restaurants later, Knauer knows what to look for: “The juiciness in meat, sweetness in desserts and gooeyness in cheese.”

And some 120 followers now subscribe to regular updates from his blog, which has received around 43,000 page views.

Restaurateurs beware however. For Knauer to reward them with his top five stars, the restaurant “has to have good food and kid-friendliness – a kids’ area or TVs or entertainment with kids’ stuff on it like cartoons or movies, kids’ meals and kid-friendly food like pizza.”

That’s not surprising for someone whose favourite food is ‘pizza, bacon pizza!’

His parents, Jason and Cheryl, encourage their son to keep up with his blog and critiques, noting it has helped improve his writing. And some of his teachers check in for ideas on where to take their own children out to eat.

Knauer’s enthusiasm and success took his parents by surprise, especially for a child who did not start talking until he was nearly four years old.

He has even won a small helping of fame after a host of radio, television and newspaper interviews. But at school, he’s treated just like all the others, as a kid who gets in trouble once in a while, loves his cartoon shows and plays videogames.

For one recent review, the young food critic headed toMorton’s The Steakhouse, “a fancy restaurant because people wear bow ties and fancy chef hats,” in Knauer’s words.

It’s an award-winning restaurant more accustomed to a hushed atmosphere with couples dining on tuna tartare, filet mignon and domestic double rib lamb chops rather than macaroni and cheese and other standard American kids’ fare.

But Knauer was ecstatic when the server brought out a big basket of onion bread that he quickly devoured. “That’s awesome. I love it, I love it!” he said, consoled somewhat after being “terrified” by a live lobster handled on a demonstration table. Then came a bacon cheeseburger twice as wide as his face, accompanied by French fries anda Coke.

“This burger is not kid-friendly because it’s so big, a kid wouldn’t be able to eat it all,” Knauer said, finishing barely a quarter of the meal.