The capital of Catalonia has long been a thriving city break destination. Since 1992 when the Olympic torch shone on it, tourism numbers have gone ballistic. Why is it that so many keep coming back for more? Maybe because the city keeps restyling and refreshing itself.
Without Antoni Gaudí and his art nouveau architecture, the rest of the world may have never discovered urban chic Barcelona. After being hit by a city tram, Gaudí was taken to a pauper’s hospital because of his bedraggled tramp-like appearance. He died on June 10, 1926, at the age of 73.
Gaudí, a spiritually-driven loner, spent much time at Montserrat, just 40 kilometres from Barcelona. There, among the serrated pinnacles of rock and the Benedictine Monastery, his imagination ran wild.
It is well worth the four-hour tour with the Barcelona Guide Bureau. You have the opportunity to see the monastery and admire the natural beauty of the National Park. Gaudí ’s best works are Unesco sites and are combined into the bureau’s Gaudí Trail.
Gaudí has left a legacy much larger than his own works. Wealthy Catalonians still strive to leave their architectural mark even now. High fashion shopping centres rival the best in Europe and attract thousands.
The recent buildings of the seafront – 22@ district and L’Eixample – may well become icons for future generations. The seafront was regenerated for the Olympics and now has a stunning array of buildings such as the Piex, the giant Frank Gehry designed fish and the Avinguda d’ Icaria by Enrich Miralles.
The famous La Rambla stretches down to the seafront and the city centre beach is packed in the summer months.
The 22@ district is the future, housing many technology and communications companies and the university building, all designed by contempory architects.
The Agbar Tower (think London’s gherkin) is 144 metres high and transforms into an ever-changing coloured lava lamp at night.
Jean Nouvel designed the Parc Del Centre del Poblenou with sculptures sprouting like trees in a calm oasis. The park is an open space much loved by local urban dwellers. It’s a great place for an evening jog or to exercise a designer dog.
From Plaça Catalunya, the Passeig de Gràcia stretches northwards. This avenue has always been home to the very wealthy. They commissioned Gaudí to create homes in a one-upmanship battle.
The masterpieces – Casa Mila, Casa Amatole, Casa Vincens and Casa Batllo – are all within a stone’s throw of each other and this is an area packed with top-end designer shops.
On the corner of Passeig de Gràcia and Rossello there is a building that at first sight may appear to be uninspiring. My eye was drawn to the concrete wings flaring out of the concrete facia – another Gaudí? In fact, it is Hotel Omm, a design hotel by Juli Capella. Venture inside to a dreamlike world of urban chic design at its best.
Sandra Tarruella and Isabel Lopez, the interior designers, have created a massive space that holds the reception, a popular cocktail bar, casual dining Moovida restaurant and Michelin-starred Moo restaurant. The use of simple, modern materials has added to the serenity that many locals crave after work.
Hotel Omm is a stress-free zone with attentive staff. I dined in the Moovida, with fine food and an award-winning wine list chosen by sommelier Roger Viusa. For such quality and service, the price was very good value.
I sipped chilled Cava while watching young yuppies gearing up for a big night out. I stayed the night too, but left the clubbing to the young.
The black leather-lined corridors to my room had non-linear lighting along the floor that reminded me of a landing strip. I was coming into land but before anything else, the porter ran me through the controls. And what controls – outer shutters, inner blinds, lighting and different mood levels, plus wifi internet, DVD and a home cinema setup.
Yet the room was designed to my liking – clutter free. A gloss panel that divided the room from the bathroom was in fact the screen for the cinema – and it was big!
The space and use of natural materials have created a warm cocoon of peacefulness. I settled into my room with a view that overlooked the Passeig de Gràcia and the floodlit Gaudí homes.
If you really want to unwind, relax in the Spaciomm spa or chill out on the rooftop terrace and pool. From there, I could see all the Gaudí buildings and even the towers of La Sagrada Familia.
What better way to stay in this city of style? Forget pretentious luxury; give me urban chic any time. Simple, harmonious living that was in utter contrast to the surreal delights of Antoni Gaudí.
I have friends that return time after time to Barcelona and I can see why. This classy city just keeps improving. Whether you love architecture like I do, or you just want to shop or hit the beach bars – Barcelona has it all.